WORLDTEMPUS - 9 November 2011
Elizabeth Doerr
In the year 1855, Napoleon Bonaparte determined that Bordeaux wines should be ranked, a move that established the official classification system for French wine. The classes were basically determined by the reputation of the châteaus and the wines’ trading price; classification goes from the premier cru (first class) through to the cinquième cru (fifth class).
In the 156 years since this “system” was established, only one single château has managed to change its class.
The Seal of Geneva is only awarded to a handful of brands © DR
Watch classification
Though the watch world does not have an official rating system such as this – if, indeed, a caste system without amendment and modification can be actually called such – brands have searched out ways to differentiate themselves from one another. One such measure was the establishment of the Seal of Geneva, which can only be awarded to movements that are assembled and regulated within the canton (not the city) of Geneva. The head offices of the company submitting the movement must also be located there.
The Seal of Geneva was officially established in 1886 and intended as a hallmark not only of origin, but also of quality. In fact, not every watch manufacture located in the Swiss canton is eligible to obtain it. Like most other geographical locations whose products are closely associated with names (think Parma, Champagne and even Glashütte), the seal was originally created to protect the name of Geneva from abuse. Three admission criteria need to be fulfilled by any brand applying to participate.
Criteria
There are twelve criteria a movement needs to fulfill to be awarded the sought-after stamp. Unlike France’s wine classification, the Seal of Geneva has been modified over the years to remain current and relevant.
The criteria apply to the technical and aesthetic aspects of a movement. In finishing, movement components are obliged to be hand-decorated with côtes de Genève and perlage and they must be hand-beveled. Obviously, one of the focuses of the Seal is to continue to emphasize the handcrafted aspects of mechanical watchmaking.
In short, the twelve criteria are:
* Good workmanship including steel parts with beveled angles and polished screw heads including beveled slots and rims
• The entire movement must be jeweled with ruby bearings in polished sinks and olive-drilling
• A pinned hairspring
• Index assembly allowed
• Variable inertia regulation also allowed
• The gear train wheels must be beveled on both sides and have a polished sink
• Pivot shanks and pinion surfaces must be polished
• The escape wheel may not be more than 0.16 mm high in larger calibers and 0.13 mm in calibers of less than 18 mm diameter and, of course, polished
• The pallet lever must be limited by fixed banking walls rather than pins or studs
• Shock protection is allowed
• The ratchet and crown wheels must be finished with registered patterns
• Wire springs are not allowed
Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1120’s Seal of Geneva can be spied on the balance cock if you look closely © Vacheron Constantin
How it is judged
The Seal of Geneva is awarded by a commission comprising seven members who are Swiss citizens appointed for four-year terms by the canton of Geneva. Each component receives individual approval before it is assembled into the whole movement. After assembly and regulation, the movement is again judged. If it passes, plates and bridges may receive the coveted stamp.
Companies that regularly receive the Seal of Geneva include Vacheron Constantin (since 1909), Roger Dubuis, Chopard, and – most recently – Cartier thanks to a corner of the Roger Dubuis factory now reserved for the venerable brand. Patek Philippe was one of the biggest proponents of the Seal until last year when the family-owned brand announced its own variation: the Patek Philippe Seal.
The Seal of Geneva takes its form from the crest of the canton of Geneva © DR
Unlike wine, watches are generally made to last for generations. And unlike wine, no monarch has ever been able to dictate which brand should please the palate of any single person. Perhaps this is the reason that the Seal of Geneva has continually been renewed and amended along with manufacturing processes in watchmaking. Who knows, soon there may well also be a provision for silicon even though it can’t be finished. Let’s toast with a glass of Bordeaux and hope for the best.
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