Who can still ignore that Ultra thin Watches are part of the Grande Maison Patrimony?
Since the very early XXth Century, LeCoultre made some very thin watches, such as this superb Minute Repeater ( Cal 18 SMV ) produced circa 1920:
Or the most famous Cal 145, from 1907, whose movement is only 1, 38 high, and which was in production for more than 50 years:
Jaeger-Lecoultre adaptated the ultra thinness to wristwatches since 1953 ( up to the Eighties ) with the Calibre 803, whose base was used for the Cal 818.
The Cal 803 was remarkably thin: 1, 64 mm only.
While the Cal 818 was much less thin, with a height of 2, 94 mm, but used in thin watches...
... Such as the Ref 1901:
aeger-Lecoultre made one of the thinnest automatic movements ever made, the famous Cal 920, used by some prestigious clients such as Patek, Vacheron, and Audemars Piguet.
The Cal 920 is 2, 45 mm high, and was in production since 1967.
We had to wait till 1994 to ee an Ultra Thin manual movement back into the collection, the well known Cal 849, which is clearly very close to the Cal 803.
The Cal 849 has a diameter of 20, 9 mm ( exactly the same diameter of the Cal 803 ) but it is slightly thicker ( 1, 85 mm instead of 1, 64 mm for the Cal 803 ).
The Cal 849:
This is this movement we are used to admire on the different Master Ultra Thin watches since 1994, the MUT 34 mm, then, in 2008, the MUT 38, and now... The MUT Jubilé which is unveiled in Geneva, during the SIHH, to celebrate the 180th birthday of the Manufacture.
Let's see the watch in the details, now that the context and the concept have been reminded.
The case is the most spectacular detail of this watch:
All new, it has a diameter of 39 mm, and is " couteau shaped ". Its profile is really impressive:
Made of extra white platinum, a blend of platinum ( 950 ) and ruthenium ( 50 ), the case is 4, 05 mm high, only.
It is all polished, and represents a real challenge.
A few figures to better understand the complexity of making such a watch:
The gap between the hands and the sapphire glass is only 0, 16 mm, and 0, 2 mm between the case back and the movement ( the well known Cal 849 ).
The glass is only 0, 6 mm thick.
If you found that the MUT 34 mm was ultra thin, you have to keep in mind that it was 5, 75 mm thin.... The New MUT 39 mm is, by far, much thinner, then.
As it was the case with the MUT 34 mm, the new MUT Jubilé will be assembled at the " Grandes Complications " workshop.
JLC opted for a solid case back, for the MUT Jubilé. Which is, in my opinion, a good decision, as the gap between the diameter of the case and the size of the movement is really important.
The dial is another mesmerizing detail:
Silver grained, long, thin and painted baton and round indexes, this dial is an example of delicateness, elegance and understatement.
The slim dauphine hands are a nice complement to this masterpiece.
A fine navy blue crocodile strap will enhance its natural beauty.
And, at the end of the strap, you will find a simple buckle, made of platinum, to avoid any " faute de gout ".
I am quite convinced that this new MUT Jubilé will be the winner of the 2013 JLC Collection, and one of the stars of the 2013 SIHH.
To be complete, the retail will be around 14 000 / 15 000 Euros, and is limited to 880 pieces
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