Think of Japanese watches and you think of Seiko. It is one of the largest watch companies in the world, with a history dating back to 1881, a huge production and a staggeringly diverse range of products. However, amongst the general population, it is usually perceived to be an inexpensive, albeit reliable brand, not in the same league as its Swiss counterparts.
Watch fans know better, citing Grand Seiko and Springdrive as two prime examples of the excellence and innovation coming out of the Japanese marque. The other common refrain heard around Seiko is that their watches offer some of the best 'bang for buck' around.
And it's the 'bang for buck' side of things that interests me. Specifically I'm interested in the value offered by the classic vintage chronographs of the 1970s. Seiko watches of this era have developed something of a cult following in the watch world, and for good reason. It was a golden period for Seiko, when their modern approach to production challenged the tradition bound Swiss, and before the onslaught of quartz technology (another Seiko first by the way), changed telling the time forever.
The story of the Seiko chronograph properly begins in 1969. A momentous year in watchmaking that finally saw the development of not just one, but three, automatic chronographs. The Calibre 11 movement developed in partnership by a number of brands, but made famous by Heuer. The El Primero was developed by Zenith and Movado, and is still in production today. Alongside these illustrious and famously storied movements, housed in some of the most desirable vintage watches around, the third automatic chronograph released in 1969 seems a little overshadowed, but the Seiko 6139 movement (and its successor, the 6138) are none the less historically significant, and a helluva lot more obtainable than the other two.
Of course that’s the other aspect to the appeal of vintage Seiko chronographs; they are excellent value. You can pick up a serviceable example in nice condition for around the $150-200 mark. That’s ridiculously cheap for an automatic column wheel chronograph. Heck, that’s cheap for a vintage watch. I’m going to give you a quick rundown of some of the more significant references from the two major movements, the 6139 and the 6138.
The 6139.
The 6139 is Seiko’s first automatic chronograph movement. It is a single register chronograph, with a 30 minute counter, no continuous seconds and a quickset day-date display. It was produced from 1969 until around 1979. The 6139s came in a range of dial colours and case styles, and where marketed under a range of names, the most significant being the ‘Speed-Timer.’ However in the ranks of 6139 devotees one model is more famous than all the rest; the 6139-6002 ‘Pogue.’
The Pogue
The ‘Pogue’ is named after Col. William Pogue, an astronaut and former Thunderbird pilot who was a member of the 1973 Skylab 4 mission. On this mission he wore the distinctive yellow dialed 6139 along with his Omega Speedmaster. He wore his 6139, (even though he did not have NASA authorization) to time the engine burns, as he had worn the Seiko during training, prior to being issued his Omega – and trusted the capabilities of the Japanese watch.
Through the diligence and tenacity of watch fan David Bruno the Pogue Seiko story came to light, and this distinctive yellow dialled chronograph is now recognized as the first automatic chronograph in space.
In 2008 Colonel Pogue pulled his trusty Seiko out of the safe, and put it up for auction. It sold for just shy of $6000, which while dirt cheap for a bona fide space watch, represents a significant premium on what a 6139 usually commands.
The 6138.
If the 6139 can (at least partially) claim the title for the world's first automatic chronograph, it’s successor - the curiously numbered 6138 movement can claim to be the most popular and most versatile of the classic Seiko chronographs. The first 6138s followed close on the heels of the 6139 – being released in 1970, and like the 6139 were produced until 1979. The most obvious difference between the two is that the 6138 is a two register chronograph, with an added 12 hour register. Like many vintage Seikos particular models or styles develop a cult following, and earn nicknames – for example the UFO and the Bullhead.
The UFO.
The ‘UFO’ (also referred to as a Yachtsman in original advertising) – so named for it’s large and vaguely extra-terrestrial discus like case is also known by the less catchy references – 6138-0010/0011/0017. When you look at the thick and bulky UFO it’s easy to see why it appeals to contemporary collectors; it’s funky, lugless case is so very evocative of the time it was made.
The Bullhead
The Bullhead is one of the most unusual, and one of the coolest looking Seiko chronographs. Rather than having the crown and chrono pushers on the right hand side of the dial, like traditional watches, the movement has been rotated so the crown and pushers are at the top of the dial, at the ’12’ – meaning the chrono pushers bear a vague resemblance to the horns of a bull. The theory behind this is that you’re less likely to engage or disengage the chronograph with the pushers at the top.
Whatever the reasoning, it resulted in a badass looking chrono: The Bullhead came in two flavours, a black dialled number (6138-0049) and a very handsome brown dialled number (6138-0040). These unusual chronos are pretty highly sought after, and command can command higher prices than their more common cousins – think $200-300 rather than $100-200. All 6138 watches are thick, because of their movement, but because of how the Bullhead sits on the wrist it’s an especially large wearing watch.
http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/5/31/ ... guide.html
