Omega
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marios_ch
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Re: Omega
Omega De Ville Annual Calendar – Platinum on leather strap
De Ville
Literally “of town” and it would suit the man about town. It is certainly urbane, elegant and refined.
There are a number of versions in the De Ville collection in red gold and steel, with black or white faces, metal or leather straps to match but it is the white–faced platinum version with the startling blue features which I find the most striking, understated, so simple and yet so engaging.
Names conjure up all sorts of images. For some “De Ville” will evoke memories of the Cadillac de Ville, seen as the epitome of luxury and elegance which ceased production in 1995. But this watch has a more subtle elegance. More sleek, more stylish was the Panther de Ville with its flowing wings and large headlights imitating the Bugatti Royale. It was the car for the rich, listed for many years as Britain’s most expensive production car. It was the car from which Cruella de Vil, swathed in furs, alighted.
However, whilst the Panther had elegance it was also ostentation. This watch is not ostentatious but is sleekly elegant. Only about sixty Panthers were made, hand built, and this watch is also a limited edition crafted with all the skills haute horology can proffer.
The
, elegant platinum De Ville Annual Calendar.
The Dial
The dial looks back at you with a clear fixed gaze with the blued numerals dominating the white face. It has absolute clarity. There are no superfluous details to distract.
The crystal domed sapphire crystal, scratch-resistant and anti reflective glass ensures a clear view of the features.
The blued raised roman numerals have squareness, a solidity which is quite masculine.
The hands are sword shaped but with the end chamfered, squared off to a bold line. Nothing could be simpler than the strong, slender line of the seconds’ hand. The definition of all is uncompromising and clean cut.
At 3 o’clock two simple apertures accommodate the month and date. The wider rectangle showing the month in simple black upper case. A smaller aperture is used for the date with the font in a heavier line.
The dial bears of course the Omega name and logo, simply depicted in black and its offering of Co-Axial and chronometer. The De Ville collection name is black but in upper case, with enlarged “D” and “E” in emphasis, attention seeking, supported by a black underlining, subtly retro.
Whilst you are presented with a simple classical round face, there is modernity to the styling and a level of refinement and purity of line and form which is almost hypnotic.
The Case
The case is a symphony in platinum, swathing the face, uncluttered, with the same bold confidence which characterises the dial. It measure 41 mm.
The interhorns are graceful with flowing lines like those of the Panther, but minimalist, no intrusion on their line, absolutely in harmony with the rest of the case and the dial.
Similarly the simple facetted, knurled, crown with its Omega logo, rests quietly at 3 o’clock, traditional and trustworthy.
That it is made of that most precious and rare metals, platinum, states that this is a luxury watch.
The transparent case back affords a view of the movement.
The Movement
The self-winding movement is the Omega 8611. It is and annual calendar with instantaneous jump and only requires adjustment each Leap Year.
It has a Co-Axial escapement which affords greater stability and precision.
Reliability and durability are paramount so it has a silicon balance spring on free sprung balance. The choice of material reduces friction and enhances durability. Its two barrels are mounted in series and provide more stable power. Automatic winding in both directions reduces winding time. The oscillating mass and balance bridge are in red gold.
The finishing is in Geneva waves in arabesque, an attractive undulating embellishment exclusive to Omega.
It has a power reserve of fifty-five hours.
Other features
A simple black leather strap compliments the unfussy face.
It is water resistant to 100 metres.
Conclusion
Of the nine variations offered in this collection this is the one which stands out with its palette and strong yet not showy elegance. It has a charisma that comes from a simple but beguiling face.
Technical specification
Model: Omega De Ville Annual Calendar – Platinum on leather strap
Reference: 431.93.41.22.04.001
Case: Platinum; 41.00 mm diameter; 14.15 mm height; water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to both front and rear.
Functions: Hours; minutes; seconds; annual calendar.
Calibre: Self-winding; Frequency 25,200 vph; power reserve 55 hours; 39 jewels; Co-Axial escapement; Twin Barrels; Chronometer; exclusive Geneva waves in arabeque.
Calibre Reference: Omega 8611
Strap: Black leather strap on platinum deployant
http://www.escapement.uk.com/articles/o ... strap.html
De Ville
Literally “of town” and it would suit the man about town. It is certainly urbane, elegant and refined.
There are a number of versions in the De Ville collection in red gold and steel, with black or white faces, metal or leather straps to match but it is the white–faced platinum version with the startling blue features which I find the most striking, understated, so simple and yet so engaging.
Names conjure up all sorts of images. For some “De Ville” will evoke memories of the Cadillac de Ville, seen as the epitome of luxury and elegance which ceased production in 1995. But this watch has a more subtle elegance. More sleek, more stylish was the Panther de Ville with its flowing wings and large headlights imitating the Bugatti Royale. It was the car for the rich, listed for many years as Britain’s most expensive production car. It was the car from which Cruella de Vil, swathed in furs, alighted.
However, whilst the Panther had elegance it was also ostentation. This watch is not ostentatious but is sleekly elegant. Only about sixty Panthers were made, hand built, and this watch is also a limited edition crafted with all the skills haute horology can proffer.
The
, elegant platinum De Ville Annual Calendar.The Dial
The dial looks back at you with a clear fixed gaze with the blued numerals dominating the white face. It has absolute clarity. There are no superfluous details to distract.
The crystal domed sapphire crystal, scratch-resistant and anti reflective glass ensures a clear view of the features.
The blued raised roman numerals have squareness, a solidity which is quite masculine.
The hands are sword shaped but with the end chamfered, squared off to a bold line. Nothing could be simpler than the strong, slender line of the seconds’ hand. The definition of all is uncompromising and clean cut.
At 3 o’clock two simple apertures accommodate the month and date. The wider rectangle showing the month in simple black upper case. A smaller aperture is used for the date with the font in a heavier line.
The dial bears of course the Omega name and logo, simply depicted in black and its offering of Co-Axial and chronometer. The De Ville collection name is black but in upper case, with enlarged “D” and “E” in emphasis, attention seeking, supported by a black underlining, subtly retro.
Whilst you are presented with a simple classical round face, there is modernity to the styling and a level of refinement and purity of line and form which is almost hypnotic.
The Case
The case is a symphony in platinum, swathing the face, uncluttered, with the same bold confidence which characterises the dial. It measure 41 mm.
The interhorns are graceful with flowing lines like those of the Panther, but minimalist, no intrusion on their line, absolutely in harmony with the rest of the case and the dial.
Similarly the simple facetted, knurled, crown with its Omega logo, rests quietly at 3 o’clock, traditional and trustworthy.
That it is made of that most precious and rare metals, platinum, states that this is a luxury watch.
The transparent case back affords a view of the movement.
The Movement
The self-winding movement is the Omega 8611. It is and annual calendar with instantaneous jump and only requires adjustment each Leap Year.
It has a Co-Axial escapement which affords greater stability and precision.
Reliability and durability are paramount so it has a silicon balance spring on free sprung balance. The choice of material reduces friction and enhances durability. Its two barrels are mounted in series and provide more stable power. Automatic winding in both directions reduces winding time. The oscillating mass and balance bridge are in red gold.
The finishing is in Geneva waves in arabesque, an attractive undulating embellishment exclusive to Omega.
It has a power reserve of fifty-five hours.
Other features
A simple black leather strap compliments the unfussy face.
It is water resistant to 100 metres.
Conclusion
Of the nine variations offered in this collection this is the one which stands out with its
palette and strong yet not showy elegance. It has a charisma that comes from a simple but beguiling face.Technical specification
Model: Omega De Ville Annual Calendar – Platinum on leather strap
Reference: 431.93.41.22.04.001
Case: Platinum; 41.00 mm diameter; 14.15 mm height; water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to both front and rear.
Functions: Hours; minutes; seconds; annual calendar.
Calibre: Self-winding; Frequency 25,200 vph; power reserve 55 hours; 39 jewels; Co-Axial escapement; Twin Barrels; Chronometer; exclusive Geneva waves in arabeque.
Calibre Reference: Omega 8611
Strap: Black leather strap on platinum deployant
http://www.escapement.uk.com/articles/o ... strap.html
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marios_ch
- Δημοσιεύσεις: 13388
- Εγγραφή: Παρ Μάιος 15, 2009 9:17 pm
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Re: Omega
A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection Of The New Omega Speedmaster "First Omega In Space"
Let's get one thing straight - the new "First Omega In Space" Speedmaster that you see above is awesome. It was released this March at Basel World and it really looks the part of vintage Speedmasters. Based on the Reference 2998 worn by Astronaut Wally Schirra into space aboard the Mercury Atlas 8 mission in October of 1962, this watch seeks to, and I believe succeeds in, capturing the hearts of all those watch fans out there that think of the vintage Speedmasters as the quintessential watch (seriously, ask anybody, even those guys with the Voutilainens and Pateks what the greatest watch ever made was, and there is a good chance they'll say the 1960's Speedmaster).
This limited edition watch of 1962 pieces is sized at 39.7mm, comes with a commemorative box, and most importantly, does not have crown guards. The early Speedmasters, like the early Submariners, had nothing protecting the crown in their original iterations, and it is these early examples that collectors go crazy for. I couldn't be more pleased that Omega noticed this, and in the production of this watch, decided to remain true to Schirra's 2998 Speedmaster.
But, on some of the more nerdy vintage watch forums, you'll see people complaining that Omega got the register hands wrong - that reference 2998 Speedmasters had all "leaf" hands for the registers. And certainly, many of the more well known reference 2998 Speedmaster did indeed have leaf hands, that looked liked this. But, what people don't understand is that there are different sub-reference of the 2998 Speedmaster, and the watch that Schirra wore into space was actually a later reference 2998 (either -5 or -6) and the register hands were simple, straight pointers, not leafs as many believe. See Schirra's actual watch below:
The watch does show all three registers with thin, pointed hands. Now, a few guys on a few forums are suggesting that Schirra's watch has had its leaf hands replaced with the normal pointed hands, as would be the norm with any service, but I don't believe that be the case - I think Schirra's watch looks just as it should for a later reference 2998.
So, when you compare the first Omega in space with The First Omega in Space, you see the watches are all but identical. It is slightly strange that Omega chose to use a leaf hand for the running seconds and not for the chronograph counters - I'm curious if they just weren't sure which hands were original to Schirra's watch (just like so many other people ) so they decided to cut their losses and use both. Historically, it's not accurate - as Schirra's had all straight hands, and aesthetically, it's a little odd - but that's nitpicking.
Something else vintage watch buffs will notice about this re-edition is that it uses a sapphire crystal instead of a hexalite crystal like the other Speedmaster Professionals. Certainaly, sapphire is a more robust material and more modern, but it seems if the other Moonwatches use hexalite, as did the original, this one should've too. Perhaps it was simply a sourcing issue, and Omega could not get its hands on hexalite crystal in this smaller size (the standard professional moonwatch is about 3mm larger than this watch), so they borrowed a normal sapphire crystal from another watch. Not a big deal at all, but worth noting.
Ιnside this Speedmaster tribute is the manually wound caliber 1861 movement. It is a really solid movement and absolutely fine in this instance, but I can't help but wonder if it would've been possible to source vintage Caliber 321 movements to put into this watch. The 321 is the stuff of legends, and was the movement originally used in the Speedmaster until around 1968 (it is a Lemania based movement, with column-wheel, and is considered by many to be one the finest movements ever made). Obviously, sourcing is an issue, but the amount of street cred Omega would've gotten for a move like that would've paid dividends for years. And, if Patek can source vintage chrono movements for new watches, so can anyone.
I also really like that Omega used an applied logo at 12 o'clock, which is one of the most noticable traits of the early Speedmasters, and it would've been very (though perhaps completely unrealistic) if they had also produced a special bezel for this watch with "dot" above "90" on tachy scale (another way to tell if the watch is a 321 Speedmaster, assuming the bezel is original).
So, all in all, the new special edition "First Omega In Space" Speedmaster is a true-to-form tribute that, on the whole, gets just about everything right. Sure, there are little points here and there that aren't perfect, but there are only a handful of watches on this earth that could be described as perfect, and they were all made a long time ago. This is really an excellent choice for someone looking to get a manually wound Speedmaster but doesn't want to deal with the hassles of buying vintage. The price for this watch, when available in the coming months, will be around $5200. Click here for more details.
http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/5/3/a ... ega-s.html
Let's get one thing straight - the new "First Omega In Space" Speedmaster that you see above is awesome. It was released this March at Basel World and it really looks the part of vintage Speedmasters. Based on the Reference 2998 worn by Astronaut Wally Schirra into space aboard the Mercury Atlas 8 mission in October of 1962, this watch seeks to, and I believe succeeds in, capturing the hearts of all those watch fans out there that think of the vintage Speedmasters as the quintessential watch (seriously, ask anybody, even those guys with the Voutilainens and Pateks what the greatest watch ever made was, and there is a good chance they'll say the 1960's Speedmaster).
This limited edition watch of 1962 pieces is sized at 39.7mm, comes with a commemorative box, and most importantly, does not have crown guards. The early Speedmasters, like the early Submariners, had nothing protecting the crown in their original iterations, and it is these early examples that collectors go crazy for. I couldn't be more pleased that Omega noticed this, and in the production of this watch, decided to remain true to Schirra's 2998 Speedmaster.
But, on some of the more nerdy vintage watch forums, you'll see people complaining that Omega got the register hands wrong - that reference 2998 Speedmasters had all "leaf" hands for the registers. And certainly, many of the more well known reference 2998 Speedmaster did indeed have leaf hands, that looked liked this. But, what people don't understand is that there are different sub-reference of the 2998 Speedmaster, and the watch that Schirra wore into space was actually a later reference 2998 (either -5 or -6) and the register hands were simple, straight pointers, not leafs as many believe. See Schirra's actual watch below:
The watch does show all three registers with thin, pointed hands. Now, a few guys on a few forums are suggesting that Schirra's watch has had its leaf hands replaced with the normal pointed hands, as would be the norm with any service, but I don't believe that be the case - I think Schirra's watch looks just as it should for a later reference 2998.
So, when you compare the first Omega in space with The First Omega in Space, you see the watches are all but identical. It is slightly strange that Omega chose to use a leaf hand for the running seconds and not for the chronograph counters - I'm curious if they just weren't sure which hands were original to Schirra's watch (just like so many other people ) so they decided to cut their losses and use both. Historically, it's not accurate - as Schirra's had all straight hands, and aesthetically, it's a little odd - but that's nitpicking.
Something else vintage watch buffs will notice about this re-edition is that it uses a sapphire crystal instead of a hexalite crystal like the other Speedmaster Professionals. Certainaly, sapphire is a more robust material and more modern, but it seems if the other Moonwatches use hexalite, as did the original, this one should've too. Perhaps it was simply a sourcing issue, and Omega could not get its hands on hexalite crystal in this smaller size (the standard professional moonwatch is about 3mm larger than this watch), so they borrowed a normal sapphire crystal from another watch. Not a big deal at all, but worth noting.
Ιnside this Speedmaster tribute is the manually wound caliber 1861 movement. It is a really solid movement and absolutely fine in this instance, but I can't help but wonder if it would've been possible to source vintage Caliber 321 movements to put into this watch. The 321 is the stuff of legends, and was the movement originally used in the Speedmaster until around 1968 (it is a Lemania based movement, with column-wheel, and is considered by many to be one the finest movements ever made). Obviously, sourcing is an issue, but the amount of street cred Omega would've gotten for a move like that would've paid dividends for years. And, if Patek can source vintage chrono movements for new watches, so can anyone.
I also really like that Omega used an applied logo at 12 o'clock, which is one of the most noticable traits of the early Speedmasters, and it would've been very
(though perhaps completely unrealistic) if they had also produced a special bezel for this watch with "dot" above "90" on tachy scale (another way to tell if the watch is a 321 Speedmaster, assuming the bezel is original). So, all in all, the new special edition "First Omega In Space" Speedmaster is a true-to-form tribute that, on the whole, gets just about everything right. Sure, there are little points here and there that aren't perfect, but there are only a handful of watches on this earth that could be described as perfect, and they were all made a long time ago. This is really an excellent choice for someone looking to get a manually wound Speedmaster but doesn't want to deal with the hassles of buying vintage. The price for this watch, when available in the coming months, will be around $5200. Click here for more details.
http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/5/3/a ... ega-s.html
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eisenberg
- sensei
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Re: Omega
Πολυ ομορφο.
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