Nomos Glashuette Tangomat GMT
In 1996 I visited the Bauhaus-Museum in Wiemar which is housed in a former coach house in Theaterplatz. There I was able to admire works by Walter Gropius who launched the school there, by the masters such as Feininger, Marks and Klee and by the students. Such diversity of exhibits, ranging across the Arts was wonderful. The Goethe Schiller trail had led me there, the Bauhaus captured me.
At a simpler level it is also that for someone who can never remember what day it is. I lose all track of time, so for me a world time watch is impressive.
The Bauhaus movement influenced design. Keeping up with changing times this watch has moved with them.
In the last twelve months Moscow has changed its winter time zone and Nomos Glashütte have amended their time for Moscow in the GMT variant. Moreover, for those with a previous model an update is possible with the fitting of a replacement disc.
World time watches require intricate complications. They are remarkable in their technology and manufacture. That usually means a high price. However, as my son will no doubt have advised readers of his site, that is not the case with Nomos Glashütte. Nomos Glashütte makes them affordable. Some watches you would love to own but never will, this watch can be admired and owned.
So, take a closer look.
The Dial
Round, clean lines this is a true watch of Glashütte, Saxon and unmistakably German, trustworthy. The Bauhaus styling means that it is modern and clean in form and style. Numbers in black stand out against the white silver background at 12, 2, 4, 8 and 10, are Arabic but have a modern edge with a slightly elongated form and a defined upstroke on the 2s. There is no 6, that would intrude on the simplest of small seconds dials set just below the centre.
Simple batons mark the minutes although those at the five integers, whilst still modest, are a little stronger in line.
At 3 o’clock is the 24-hour time indicator, a cutaway segment revealing partially the previous and the next hour but with the current hour at home given focus by the pointing of a red triangle. The hours are counted in twos.
At 9 o’clock there is the identification of the city, three letters in upper case in black.
The legend, Nomos, Glashütte and Made in Germany are again in simple black lettering in descending order of size so that the country is noticeable and the magical Glashütte origin is not a subject of boasting.
Finally those slender blued hands, so finely drawn are a delight. They are so graceful. The hour is marginally thicker than the longer minute hand and the second hand incredibly svelte.
Protecting the face is a sapphire crystal. The watch also has a sapphire crystal back.
The Case
Fashioned in stainless steel, uncluttered in line, a slim frame to the dial, polished, marrying perfectly with the understated lugs, the case is in perfect harmony with the clearly defined dial, not distracting from it, in keeping with it. There is a holistic symmetry and form in the design with dial and case having a unity. There is a slim bezel which makes the dial even more visible and delivers a greater feeling of clarity and visibility.
The case is 40mm and discreet.
At 2 o’clock a pusher moves the disc and the hour hand until the appointed time zone appears.
The knurled crown bearing the Nomos name also rests at 3 o’clock.
The Movement
Through the sapphire crystal case back can be viewed the Manufacture movement and some of the 26 jewels.
It is the Calibre xi.
Being a Glashütte watch it might be anticipated that the movement would be in-house and the principle componenents would also be.
Again as one might anticipate, bearing that illustrious place name, the finish is beautiful, with Glashütte ribbing on the bridges, perlage on the plate and blued screws.
Other features
The watch has the Nomos Glashütte shell cordovan strap and simple buckle. The straps are made out of Horween Shell Cordovan, coming from one very particular firm: Horween Leather Company in Chicago. Nomos Glashütte uses this leather for watch straps because they are four or five times more durable than those made of crocodile, shark, ostrich or cowhide. Also, the straps made of this leather never wear out, but acquire instead a chic patina.
Conclusion
This watch fills me with delight in its honouring of Bauhaus and upholding of that tradition of linking form and function. The minimalist design which does not distract is thoughtful and uses and respects the materials it employs.
It offers so much and so enjoy the clarity of the face, the uncluttered lines but also revel in the pleasures of the craftsmanship of the movement, the decadent detail of the finissage.
Nomos Glashütte takes pride in that tradition but I also admire that without pretension it acknowledges that it does offer a very great deal for the buyer’s money and does not as it says “cost an arm and a leg” and that “the prices are fairly calculated”.
Technical specification
Model: Nomos Tangomat GMT
Reference: 635
Case: stainless steel; 40.00 mm diameter; 10.85 mm height; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and back.
Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; time zone indicator at 9 o'clock; home indicator at 3 o'clock.
Movement: Nomos xi calibre. Self-winding Manufactory movement. Frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz). Three-quarter plate; perlage; blued screws; INCABLOC shock protection; stop seconds mechanism; 26 jewels and a balance spring made of Nivarox 1A. Power reserve 42 hours.
Strap: Horween Shell Cordovan strap on pink buckle.
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