Jaeger-Le-Coultre
- Megalos
- Διαχειριστής
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Re: Jaeger-Le-Coultre
Βασιλη ευχαριστω πολυ
ναι το 8ημερο ειναι τελικα πολυ ωραιο κομματι :D
ναι το 8ημερο ειναι τελικα πολυ ωραιο κομματι :D
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- antonis_ch
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- eisenberg
- sensei
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Re: Jaeger-Le-Coultre
Αυτη ειναι ερωτηση που τοσο νωρις μονο ο stef θα μπορουσε να απαντησειεννέα έγραψε:Ξέρουμε επίσημες τιμές για τη σειρά Navy Seals?
Ψάχνω για το τέλειο ρολόι...ελπίζω να μην το βρω ποτέ!
- warover
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Re: Jaeger-Le-Coultre
παμε στα ωραια :mrgreen:
Gyrotourbillon-I, The Superlative watch!
The preliminary idea of Gyrotourbillon was first discussed in October 2001 by Stephane Belmont of Product Development and Eric Coudray. The weather had just turned chilly, and both of them thought a super-complicated Spherical Tourbilon would be a challenge worth tackling.
If the unkempt Eric Couday in shorts and loose T-shirt doesn’t impress you, let me just say that this is the genius, who produced the new minute Minute Repeater mechanism in calibre 943 (1994) and the amazing Constant Force Atmos Mysterius last year. He is the best kept secret of Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Before the cynics start to scream "Not another Tourbillon!" and "Thomas Prescher & Franck Muller copy-cats!", I do hope fellow members will be patient enough to hear me out.
The company founded by Antoine LeCoultre, is no stranger to making complicated watches. Since 1870, JLC has been making (or supplying the movements of) Minute Repeater, Chronograph, Grande Complication, Perpetual Calendar etc.
In 1938, the presentation of the retrograde calendar was a genuinely avant-garde event. The calibre 11U had a perpetual calendar complete with a retrograde date hand. Simple complications like alarm, GMT and worldtimer in watches were also not new to the factory in Le Sentier.
In modern times (since 1940), Jaeger-LeCoultre was probably the first to bring back tourbillon to the world in such quantity - 27 pieces of the legendary Calibre 170 three-armed tourbillon movement. This was considered an amazingly HUGE number of tourbillons at the time.
(MJLC Cal. 170 Tourbillon movement, winner of 1941 Neuchatel Observatory in 1941)
Jacques-David LeCoultre decided to throw the spotlight on the technical mastery of the manufacture by submitting the Cal. 170 for observatory competitions. Jaeger-LeCoultre immediately earned the highest distinctions, particularly from the Neuchatel Observatory in 1941.
(Many changes in the 2-1/2 years process)
This story is not new to MJLC, but there probably wasn’t a single Jaeger-LeCoultre Tourbillon in the 1940’s. Most of the JLC- made calibre 170 movements carried the engravings of famous top watch brands that come with non-JLC dials. The identity of the real manufacturer remains a shadowy secret to most consumers of "TOP" brands to this day.
Two years after the famous come-back piece that was 60eme in 1991, the legendary Gunter Blumlein decided to strategically introduce (probably) the smallest (volume) tourbillon movement in calibre 828 to maintain the momentum of success and to convert even the most stubborn JLC skeptics.
(The Calibre 828, used in the 1993 limited Pink Gold Reverso Tourbillon)
By the time the Platinum 2 Tourbillon was introduced last year, despite the platinum case, 18K solid grey gold movement and fine decorations, for JLC, it was probably a lot less of a challenge.
(The 2003 Platinum-2 Tourbillon, Grey 18K solid gold movement, Platinum case)
While I need not explain to fellow PuristS why the traditional tourbillon doesn’t correct horizontal positions (when watch is faced up or down), Eric Coudray (technical) and Magali Metrailler (aesthetic) knew this project was going to be a big challenge for them, and they quickly put their minds to work.
By January 2002, the first drawing of the face of this exceptional timepiece was out. After many months of intense work, Eric had the mechanisms all figured out.
(One of the Gyrotourbillon-I movement being assembled, the Spherical tourbillon cage is already fully functional in this particular piece)
As in the conservative tradition of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the manufacturer probably made the mistake of not quickly launching the Spherical tourbillon watch. Instead they choose to file for new patents to protect this technology. The 3 separate patents were granted by end 2002.
The 3 patents granted are for these breakthrough mechanisms:
(1) Spherical tourbillon
(2) A new Double Retrograde Date
(3) An entirely new Perpetual Calendar Mechanism
Spherical Tourbillon:
Based on my visual inspection, the new spherical Tourbillon Calibre 177 is the most graceful implementation of the Dual-axis tourbillons so far. The three dimensional rotation of the balance-wheel are at the very heart of an extraordinary horological invention. The ultra-light external cage makes a complete turn about its axis every minute. The internal cage which supports the balance wheel, spiral and escapement, rotates far more rapidly – every 24 seconds to be exact, hence completing 2.5 turns per minute. As a matter of fact, the speed of 20 seconds per rotation was tested in an early prototype for a considerable period, but for most of the time, the balance-wheel was not as visible as desired. Hence it was deemed not attractive enough.
(Exciting Gyrotourbillon-I prototype on Magali’s table, so close, and yet so far!)
To be clear, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master-watchmakers did not settle on this unusual rotation speed by mere chance. In fact, this means that the solid gold balance wheel will appear once every minute in all its glory before the eyes of the observer, before continuing its tottering progress, as though weightless, but following a carefully pre-planned course through the microcosm of the spherical tourbillon. The total weight of the 90 part rotating body is only 0.035grams.
To achieve this weight, the aluminium ball-shaped external body is supported by titanium parts. If steel were to be used, this same element would weigh around 0.11grams. Aluminium, used in aeronautics and high performance engines due to its exceptionally low density, high resistance to corrosion and ability to be mirror polished, is perfectly suitable for this tourbillon.
In any case, this is not the first time JLC has used this metal. In their ongoing pursuit for innovation, they had successfully experimented with prototypes made entirely of aluminum in the 1940s.
(The amazing complete gyrotourbillon-I escapement)
Because a high moment of inertia is required for the oscillation mechanism, the balance-wheel and the setting screw is made entirely of 14K solid gold.
The calibre 177 is also equipped with two barrels mounted in series. In order to limit the effects of friction, for the first time ever, the lid and base of the spring barrels are made of sapphire crystal, making it also possible for the observer to gaze on the springs that guarantee a power reserve of 150 hours.
(Testing the Sapphire crystal main spring barrel, a first in the industry)
A steel gearwheel attached to the tourbillon’s external body locks into the slant-toothed “roué de moyenne”, catching up all the different areas of activity into a single circular clockwise motion.
In order to reduce the height of the movement, JLC decided to have the tourbillon cage angled downwards by about 37 degrees. In my opinion, this subtle slant further improves the visibility of the mechanism and makes this the most graceful 3 dimensional tourbillon ever. Another wheel, placed at the same angle and with similarly slanted teeth, rotates the internal cage through 360 degrees.
The indispensable link between the oscillation and escapement system, is provided by a second wheel situated within the aluminium ball and the gearwheel of the anchor wheel.
(For journalists who were invited to Le Sentier on February and March this year, an autographed copy of Magali's initial Gyrotourbillon-I drawing was given – spot the difference)
The circular motion of the internal cage automatically transmits a similar motion to the anchor wheel. The anchor then passes this energy on to the balance-wheel and its Breguet spiral in order to maintain the rate of vibration at 21,600 oscillations an hour. Going in the opposite direction, the escapement ensures that the wheel mechanism only advances in small, finely calibrated steps that can be represented by the second and minute hands. Yes, despite considerable difficulties with a three dimensional sphere, the watch still has a very attractive second hand, in the form of a small pointer designed for that very purpose, positioned on the external part of the aluminium cage.
The regulation of the oscillation system can be carried out once the mechanism has been put together. In order to do this, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master-watchmakers alter the balance-wheel’s inertia by means of the outlying screws under the serge. Of course, the factory and major service centres will have the custom design tools to help regulate the watch quickly and easily.
Most of us think of a tourbillon as a delicate object that needs to be stored carefully; a mechanical marvel that was only to be brought outdoors with utmost care. While we hobbyists should still treat mechanical watches with respect, perhaps it is time a tourbillon need not be deemed excessively delicate and fragile. To withstand normal shock, JLC has equipped the watch with six anti-shock devices: two in the aluminium cage, two in the internal revolving titanium and aluminium cage and two in the balance-wheel.
(Many versions of Gyrotourbillon drawings on Magali’s table)
As this great autonomy of self- function can make one forget to rewind the movement, on the side of the dial there’s a power-reserve indicator which is quite simply impossible to ignore. But this is by no means the watchmakers’ final word where indications are concerned. The new movement has further surprises up its sleeve.
Patented Double Retrograde and Double Retrograde mechanism:
If one finds most complicated wristwatch dials too busy and illegible, both Eric Coudray and designer Magali Metrailler want this super complication to be simple, legible and yet able to indicate all functions clearly. One of the difficulties for Magali is that she also wanted to be faithful to the classic system of analogue display of the hour and minutes.
Thinking a traditional Date and Month indicator may be too busy, the product development team decided to stretch the date scale from left to right in a splendidly smiling arc, across the whole dial. But to make this work, the traditional date change disc mechanism has to be abandoned.
(The lovely Magali, designer of the exceptional looking Gyrotourbillon-I!)
The patented Double retrograde mechanism works in a most exciting manner. One small triangle hand is responsible for the first half of the month and another hand for the second half. While the hand on the left attends to its business, the tip of that on the right remains in its waiting position. The changeover takes place on the 16th of each month, when the two hands are briefly united. Then the pointer on the left takes up its waiting position while that on the right advances by one position on the stroke of midnight each day. As large and small jumps alike require a great deal of energy, throughout the day, the mechanism accumulating small amounts from the movement, storing it in the springs and liberating it in a concentrated force at 00:00 hrs. This makes it an instantaneous date change or what is commonly called “The Whip”. Such ingenuity ensures that the calendar functions fluently without affecting the oscillations of the balance-wheel or the dynamic movements of the tourbillon.
(Experimenting with different dials and see how they look)
If this is not interesting enough on paper, watching the followings date changes should be visually exciting:
(1) On the midnight date change from 15th to 16th, you will see the left indicator jump from “15” to “16”, while the right indicator jumps simultaneously from the empty space right of “31” to “16”.
(2) On the midnight date change from 16th to 17th, you will see the left indicator jump from “16” to the empty space before “1” and at the exact same moment the right indicator jumps from “16” to 17”
(3) At the turn of the month, the left indicator jumps from the empty space before “1” to “1” while the right indicator will at the exact same moment jump from either “28”, “29”, “30” or “31” to the empty space right of “31”
Such sights are guaranteed to make all PuristS skip a heart beat, certainly a moment to be treasured.
(The Date Change mechanism diagram)
And because Eric Coudray refused to add on just a perpetual calendar module to the calibre, he designed an entirely new patented mechanism where the calculations are based on 572?? days per year and will be complemented by the necessary correction to the right day, date and month in every day of the year, in a four year cycle.
(Eric Coudray, aka Peter Jackson of JLC, an unassuming genious)
EQUATION OF TIME:
“What time is it?” To this seemingly simple question, one should made a no less simple an answer. Since time is relative rather than absolute, it can only be what it says on the face of a watch. With this bold affirmation, Albert Einstein, one of the greatest mind acrobats of all time, initiated a whole series of experiments and studies which hardly made an impression on the ordinary person’s perception of time.
Everyone knows that our system for measuring time is based on the earth rotating around the sun. One complete turn is therefore logically called a solar day, which humans have divided into hours, minutes and seconds. Up to this point, everything seems clear. But there is a problem: The earth follows an elliptical course around the sun. Moreover, the earth’s axis is at an angle. As a result, the length of each day is always changing, in a slight but nonetheless measurable degree. The temporal difference between the shortest and the longest solar day is exactly 30 minutes and 45 seconds in a year – far too great a span to not have an impact on our daily activities. So, as a way out of this impasse, humankind calculated an average solar time, defining the length of a day as 86,400 seconds, 1,440 minutes or 24 hours. It’s this notion of time that the hands of 99.9% of watches indicate.
The actual but largely ignored difference between the mean time we commonly assume to be correct and true solar time, is represented by the time equation. The annual cycle can be shown in mathematical form, reaching its maximum points of differences on 10 and 11 February (+14 minutes and 24 seconds) and 3 November (-16 minutes and 21 seconds).
Four times a year (15 April, 13 June, 1 September and 25 December) true solar time is identical to mean time. Though it plays virtually no part in most people’s daily lives, astronomers are strongly dependent on true solar time in order to observe cosmic events.
(Translation, 2nd. Cage wheel / anchor bridge / seconds index / stud holder / balance wheel in gold / screws / fixed wheel for 1st. cage / antishocks / escapement bridge etc...).
Since the end of the seventeenth century, there were complicated clocks that displayed true solar time as well as mean time.
In this unusual complication, there are basically two different accepted systems of solar time indication. The first illustrates the value of the time equation at a given time on a scale ranging from –17 to +15 minutes. A good deal of cerebral gymnastics is thus required to determine the true time. Jaeger-LeCoultre has refrained from imposing such a brain-teasing puzzle on the owner of its Gyrotourbillon I. Instead, an equation hand, or what I would like to term as the solar minute hand, which has a tip adorned with a small sun, alongside the watch’s mean (normal) minute hand.
The solar minute hand will sometimes overtake it, or lag behind the mean minute hand. And for four times a year, they will synchronise almost perfectly.
Tied to the perpetual calendar, the solar minute hand will indicate astronomical data exactly. A simple glance is thus enough to see, for example, that it is 10:10 according to mean solar time, but 10:20 in true solar time without the need to take out a calculator necessary for other Equation of Time wristwatches. Impressive!
Another exciting change is that I feel this manufacture has now posted her first notice for what I think is a long overdue change in design aesthetic. When “grumpy old men” complained that the Compressor range is too un-JLC, my only complain on this great new range is that the Compressor is still “too JLC”.
Although Magali is relatively young for a watch designer, the new compressor range she designed has been commercially accepted. Despite hoping for more radical changes, I did like the product and noticed a glimpse of her vast potential.
It is obvious to me that Jaeger-LeCoultre has always possessed the technical prowess and the ability not just to launch technically superior prototypes, but actually construct the production-piece (as opposed to the prototype) for actual delivery to the end user.
No doubt each Gyrotourbillon-I will be assembled by a single watchmaker, atelier style, but Jaeger-LeCoultre is confident to actually produce around 15 pieces of production models a year.
Despite a launch which comes one year later than both Thomas Prescher and Franck Muller, I dare say that Jaeger-LeCoultre will be the first to actually deliver a real production piece (not just a prototype) to a retailer.
Certainly, due to the total limited production of 75 pieces in 5 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre will not distribute this product through every authorised JLC retailer. The watch will only be retailed at selected exclusive retailers who have proven their ability to serve haute horlogerie technical collectors.
Cynics may still claim they don’t want another tourbillon, but I am pretty certain this Spherical tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar, equation of time, double retrograde date, retrograde month and retrograde power reserve should be the piece de resistance of SIHH 2004.
πηγη thepuristpro
Gyrotourbillon-I, The Superlative watch!
The preliminary idea of Gyrotourbillon was first discussed in October 2001 by Stephane Belmont of Product Development and Eric Coudray. The weather had just turned chilly, and both of them thought a super-complicated Spherical Tourbilon would be a challenge worth tackling.
If the unkempt Eric Couday in shorts and loose T-shirt doesn’t impress you, let me just say that this is the genius, who produced the new minute Minute Repeater mechanism in calibre 943 (1994) and the amazing Constant Force Atmos Mysterius last year. He is the best kept secret of Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Before the cynics start to scream "Not another Tourbillon!" and "Thomas Prescher & Franck Muller copy-cats!", I do hope fellow members will be patient enough to hear me out.
The company founded by Antoine LeCoultre, is no stranger to making complicated watches. Since 1870, JLC has been making (or supplying the movements of) Minute Repeater, Chronograph, Grande Complication, Perpetual Calendar etc.
In 1938, the presentation of the retrograde calendar was a genuinely avant-garde event. The calibre 11U had a perpetual calendar complete with a retrograde date hand. Simple complications like alarm, GMT and worldtimer in watches were also not new to the factory in Le Sentier.
In modern times (since 1940), Jaeger-LeCoultre was probably the first to bring back tourbillon to the world in such quantity - 27 pieces of the legendary Calibre 170 three-armed tourbillon movement. This was considered an amazingly HUGE number of tourbillons at the time.
(MJLC Cal. 170 Tourbillon movement, winner of 1941 Neuchatel Observatory in 1941)
Jacques-David LeCoultre decided to throw the spotlight on the technical mastery of the manufacture by submitting the Cal. 170 for observatory competitions. Jaeger-LeCoultre immediately earned the highest distinctions, particularly from the Neuchatel Observatory in 1941.
(Many changes in the 2-1/2 years process)
This story is not new to MJLC, but there probably wasn’t a single Jaeger-LeCoultre Tourbillon in the 1940’s. Most of the JLC- made calibre 170 movements carried the engravings of famous top watch brands that come with non-JLC dials. The identity of the real manufacturer remains a shadowy secret to most consumers of "TOP" brands to this day.
Two years after the famous come-back piece that was 60eme in 1991, the legendary Gunter Blumlein decided to strategically introduce (probably) the smallest (volume) tourbillon movement in calibre 828 to maintain the momentum of success and to convert even the most stubborn JLC skeptics.
(The Calibre 828, used in the 1993 limited Pink Gold Reverso Tourbillon)
By the time the Platinum 2 Tourbillon was introduced last year, despite the platinum case, 18K solid grey gold movement and fine decorations, for JLC, it was probably a lot less of a challenge.
(The 2003 Platinum-2 Tourbillon, Grey 18K solid gold movement, Platinum case)
While I need not explain to fellow PuristS why the traditional tourbillon doesn’t correct horizontal positions (when watch is faced up or down), Eric Coudray (technical) and Magali Metrailler (aesthetic) knew this project was going to be a big challenge for them, and they quickly put their minds to work.
By January 2002, the first drawing of the face of this exceptional timepiece was out. After many months of intense work, Eric had the mechanisms all figured out.
(One of the Gyrotourbillon-I movement being assembled, the Spherical tourbillon cage is already fully functional in this particular piece)
As in the conservative tradition of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the manufacturer probably made the mistake of not quickly launching the Spherical tourbillon watch. Instead they choose to file for new patents to protect this technology. The 3 separate patents were granted by end 2002.
The 3 patents granted are for these breakthrough mechanisms:
(1) Spherical tourbillon
(2) A new Double Retrograde Date
(3) An entirely new Perpetual Calendar Mechanism
Spherical Tourbillon:
Based on my visual inspection, the new spherical Tourbillon Calibre 177 is the most graceful implementation of the Dual-axis tourbillons so far. The three dimensional rotation of the balance-wheel are at the very heart of an extraordinary horological invention. The ultra-light external cage makes a complete turn about its axis every minute. The internal cage which supports the balance wheel, spiral and escapement, rotates far more rapidly – every 24 seconds to be exact, hence completing 2.5 turns per minute. As a matter of fact, the speed of 20 seconds per rotation was tested in an early prototype for a considerable period, but for most of the time, the balance-wheel was not as visible as desired. Hence it was deemed not attractive enough.
(Exciting Gyrotourbillon-I prototype on Magali’s table, so close, and yet so far!)
To be clear, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master-watchmakers did not settle on this unusual rotation speed by mere chance. In fact, this means that the solid gold balance wheel will appear once every minute in all its glory before the eyes of the observer, before continuing its tottering progress, as though weightless, but following a carefully pre-planned course through the microcosm of the spherical tourbillon. The total weight of the 90 part rotating body is only 0.035grams.
To achieve this weight, the aluminium ball-shaped external body is supported by titanium parts. If steel were to be used, this same element would weigh around 0.11grams. Aluminium, used in aeronautics and high performance engines due to its exceptionally low density, high resistance to corrosion and ability to be mirror polished, is perfectly suitable for this tourbillon.
In any case, this is not the first time JLC has used this metal. In their ongoing pursuit for innovation, they had successfully experimented with prototypes made entirely of aluminum in the 1940s.
(The amazing complete gyrotourbillon-I escapement)
Because a high moment of inertia is required for the oscillation mechanism, the balance-wheel and the setting screw is made entirely of 14K solid gold.
The calibre 177 is also equipped with two barrels mounted in series. In order to limit the effects of friction, for the first time ever, the lid and base of the spring barrels are made of sapphire crystal, making it also possible for the observer to gaze on the springs that guarantee a power reserve of 150 hours.
(Testing the Sapphire crystal main spring barrel, a first in the industry)
A steel gearwheel attached to the tourbillon’s external body locks into the slant-toothed “roué de moyenne”, catching up all the different areas of activity into a single circular clockwise motion.
In order to reduce the height of the movement, JLC decided to have the tourbillon cage angled downwards by about 37 degrees. In my opinion, this subtle slant further improves the visibility of the mechanism and makes this the most graceful 3 dimensional tourbillon ever. Another wheel, placed at the same angle and with similarly slanted teeth, rotates the internal cage through 360 degrees.
The indispensable link between the oscillation and escapement system, is provided by a second wheel situated within the aluminium ball and the gearwheel of the anchor wheel.
(For journalists who were invited to Le Sentier on February and March this year, an autographed copy of Magali's initial Gyrotourbillon-I drawing was given – spot the difference)
The circular motion of the internal cage automatically transmits a similar motion to the anchor wheel. The anchor then passes this energy on to the balance-wheel and its Breguet spiral in order to maintain the rate of vibration at 21,600 oscillations an hour. Going in the opposite direction, the escapement ensures that the wheel mechanism only advances in small, finely calibrated steps that can be represented by the second and minute hands. Yes, despite considerable difficulties with a three dimensional sphere, the watch still has a very attractive second hand, in the form of a small pointer designed for that very purpose, positioned on the external part of the aluminium cage.
The regulation of the oscillation system can be carried out once the mechanism has been put together. In order to do this, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master-watchmakers alter the balance-wheel’s inertia by means of the outlying screws under the serge. Of course, the factory and major service centres will have the custom design tools to help regulate the watch quickly and easily.
Most of us think of a tourbillon as a delicate object that needs to be stored carefully; a mechanical marvel that was only to be brought outdoors with utmost care. While we hobbyists should still treat mechanical watches with respect, perhaps it is time a tourbillon need not be deemed excessively delicate and fragile. To withstand normal shock, JLC has equipped the watch with six anti-shock devices: two in the aluminium cage, two in the internal revolving titanium and aluminium cage and two in the balance-wheel.
(Many versions of Gyrotourbillon drawings on Magali’s table)
As this great autonomy of self- function can make one forget to rewind the movement, on the side of the dial there’s a power-reserve indicator which is quite simply impossible to ignore. But this is by no means the watchmakers’ final word where indications are concerned. The new movement has further surprises up its sleeve.
Patented Double Retrograde and Double Retrograde mechanism:
If one finds most complicated wristwatch dials too busy and illegible, both Eric Coudray and designer Magali Metrailler want this super complication to be simple, legible and yet able to indicate all functions clearly. One of the difficulties for Magali is that she also wanted to be faithful to the classic system of analogue display of the hour and minutes.
Thinking a traditional Date and Month indicator may be too busy, the product development team decided to stretch the date scale from left to right in a splendidly smiling arc, across the whole dial. But to make this work, the traditional date change disc mechanism has to be abandoned.
(The lovely Magali, designer of the exceptional looking Gyrotourbillon-I!)
The patented Double retrograde mechanism works in a most exciting manner. One small triangle hand is responsible for the first half of the month and another hand for the second half. While the hand on the left attends to its business, the tip of that on the right remains in its waiting position. The changeover takes place on the 16th of each month, when the two hands are briefly united. Then the pointer on the left takes up its waiting position while that on the right advances by one position on the stroke of midnight each day. As large and small jumps alike require a great deal of energy, throughout the day, the mechanism accumulating small amounts from the movement, storing it in the springs and liberating it in a concentrated force at 00:00 hrs. This makes it an instantaneous date change or what is commonly called “The Whip”. Such ingenuity ensures that the calendar functions fluently without affecting the oscillations of the balance-wheel or the dynamic movements of the tourbillon.
(Experimenting with different dials and see how they look)
If this is not interesting enough on paper, watching the followings date changes should be visually exciting:
(1) On the midnight date change from 15th to 16th, you will see the left indicator jump from “15” to “16”, while the right indicator jumps simultaneously from the empty space right of “31” to “16”.
(2) On the midnight date change from 16th to 17th, you will see the left indicator jump from “16” to the empty space before “1” and at the exact same moment the right indicator jumps from “16” to 17”
(3) At the turn of the month, the left indicator jumps from the empty space before “1” to “1” while the right indicator will at the exact same moment jump from either “28”, “29”, “30” or “31” to the empty space right of “31”
Such sights are guaranteed to make all PuristS skip a heart beat, certainly a moment to be treasured.
(The Date Change mechanism diagram)
And because Eric Coudray refused to add on just a perpetual calendar module to the calibre, he designed an entirely new patented mechanism where the calculations are based on 572?? days per year and will be complemented by the necessary correction to the right day, date and month in every day of the year, in a four year cycle.
(Eric Coudray, aka Peter Jackson of JLC, an unassuming genious)
EQUATION OF TIME:
“What time is it?” To this seemingly simple question, one should made a no less simple an answer. Since time is relative rather than absolute, it can only be what it says on the face of a watch. With this bold affirmation, Albert Einstein, one of the greatest mind acrobats of all time, initiated a whole series of experiments and studies which hardly made an impression on the ordinary person’s perception of time.
Everyone knows that our system for measuring time is based on the earth rotating around the sun. One complete turn is therefore logically called a solar day, which humans have divided into hours, minutes and seconds. Up to this point, everything seems clear. But there is a problem: The earth follows an elliptical course around the sun. Moreover, the earth’s axis is at an angle. As a result, the length of each day is always changing, in a slight but nonetheless measurable degree. The temporal difference between the shortest and the longest solar day is exactly 30 minutes and 45 seconds in a year – far too great a span to not have an impact on our daily activities. So, as a way out of this impasse, humankind calculated an average solar time, defining the length of a day as 86,400 seconds, 1,440 minutes or 24 hours. It’s this notion of time that the hands of 99.9% of watches indicate.
The actual but largely ignored difference between the mean time we commonly assume to be correct and true solar time, is represented by the time equation. The annual cycle can be shown in mathematical form, reaching its maximum points of differences on 10 and 11 February (+14 minutes and 24 seconds) and 3 November (-16 minutes and 21 seconds).
Four times a year (15 April, 13 June, 1 September and 25 December) true solar time is identical to mean time. Though it plays virtually no part in most people’s daily lives, astronomers are strongly dependent on true solar time in order to observe cosmic events.
(Translation, 2nd. Cage wheel / anchor bridge / seconds index / stud holder / balance wheel in gold / screws / fixed wheel for 1st. cage / antishocks / escapement bridge etc...).
Since the end of the seventeenth century, there were complicated clocks that displayed true solar time as well as mean time.
In this unusual complication, there are basically two different accepted systems of solar time indication. The first illustrates the value of the time equation at a given time on a scale ranging from –17 to +15 minutes. A good deal of cerebral gymnastics is thus required to determine the true time. Jaeger-LeCoultre has refrained from imposing such a brain-teasing puzzle on the owner of its Gyrotourbillon I. Instead, an equation hand, or what I would like to term as the solar minute hand, which has a tip adorned with a small sun, alongside the watch’s mean (normal) minute hand.
The solar minute hand will sometimes overtake it, or lag behind the mean minute hand. And for four times a year, they will synchronise almost perfectly.
Tied to the perpetual calendar, the solar minute hand will indicate astronomical data exactly. A simple glance is thus enough to see, for example, that it is 10:10 according to mean solar time, but 10:20 in true solar time without the need to take out a calculator necessary for other Equation of Time wristwatches. Impressive!
Another exciting change is that I feel this manufacture has now posted her first notice for what I think is a long overdue change in design aesthetic. When “grumpy old men” complained that the Compressor range is too un-JLC, my only complain on this great new range is that the Compressor is still “too JLC”.
Although Magali is relatively young for a watch designer, the new compressor range she designed has been commercially accepted. Despite hoping for more radical changes, I did like the product and noticed a glimpse of her vast potential.
It is obvious to me that Jaeger-LeCoultre has always possessed the technical prowess and the ability not just to launch technically superior prototypes, but actually construct the production-piece (as opposed to the prototype) for actual delivery to the end user.
No doubt each Gyrotourbillon-I will be assembled by a single watchmaker, atelier style, but Jaeger-LeCoultre is confident to actually produce around 15 pieces of production models a year.
Despite a launch which comes one year later than both Thomas Prescher and Franck Muller, I dare say that Jaeger-LeCoultre will be the first to actually deliver a real production piece (not just a prototype) to a retailer.
Certainly, due to the total limited production of 75 pieces in 5 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre will not distribute this product through every authorised JLC retailer. The watch will only be retailed at selected exclusive retailers who have proven their ability to serve haute horlogerie technical collectors.
Cynics may still claim they don’t want another tourbillon, but I am pretty certain this Spherical tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar, equation of time, double retrograde date, retrograde month and retrograde power reserve should be the piece de resistance of SIHH 2004.
πηγη thepuristpro
- warover
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Re: Jaeger-Le-Coultre
Duometre a Chronographe movement pic and full press release.
By: Dje (registered) Sunday, April 15th, 2007 - Photo Nav: View All 1 photo(s)
Here is coming what many of you are waiting, a full size picture of the new Duometre a Chronographe calibre 380.
This is what I may call a nice point of view.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre a Chronographe movement picture
Here is also the full length press release issued by Jaeger-LeCoultre:
Duometre a Chronographe
The chronograph reinvented by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Acclaimed recent accomplishments such as the Gyrotourbillon I, the Master Minute Repeater and the Reverso Grande Complication a triptyque – the world's most complicated wristwatch – have borne eloquent testimony to the technical inventiveness of Jaeger-LeCoultre, setting the seal on its extraordinary renown within the highly selective field of Haute Horlogerie complications.
This year, the Manufacture maintains this intensive pace of innovations with the unveiling of a new collection, the Duometre, and the presentation of
the first model in the line, the Duometre a Chronographe. The latter's distinctive styling and unprecedented technical features clearly place it in the most exclusive echelons of watchmaking fine art. This genuine micromechanical revolution houses a new-generation Calibre 380, nicknamed "Dual-Wing". Two independent mechanisms respectively serve to drive the time display and an additional function, while a single shared regulating organ ensures chronometer-worthy operating precision without having to renounce the use of a complication. As the first representative of the new lineage, Calibre 380 is the first chronograph mechanism with no coupling-clutch, offering peerless time-measurement precision and read-off to the nearest one-sixth of a second. Housing this movement and endowed with a new case featuring welded lugs and a finely grained dial, the Duometre offers a superlative reinterpretation of a great watchmaking classic.
The Dual-Wing concept
The new Duometre line immediately commands attention with its brilliant new movement construction concept. Two separate watch mechanisms – one for the time display and another
for an additional complication – are synchronised by a single regulating organ. Each of these mechanisms has its own source of energy and there is no interaction between the two. The
only element they share is the regulating organ that supplies them with the time basis. The first movement to embody this new construction concept is Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380.
It drives time displays with chronometer-like accuracy, as well as a chronograph that is unprecedented in terms of its indications and its precision. One going train is entirely dedicated to the conventional time-display function (hours, minutes, seconds), and the other to the chronograph function, including a one-sixth of a second jumping seconds hand. Each mechanism is powered by its own barrel, ensuring a 50-hour power reserve (50 hours for the time and 50 hours for the chronograph). There is no transfer of energy in either direction. A single crown serves to wind the two barrels: when rotated clockwise, it winds the time; and when turned counter-clockwise, it winds the chronograph. This calibre is housed within the very first chronograph wristwatch to operate without any need for a coupling-clutch to handle the start/stop functions of timing operations. A single push-piece ensures perfect coordination of the five chronograph counters.
The chronograph reinvented by Jaeger-LeCoultre
The art of measuring and counting off periods of time has always been a source of fascination to humankind. Theoretically speaking, a chronograph mechanism and the layout of a chronograph dial must be extremely accurate and suited to repetitive and continuous use without ever jeopardizing the exactness and precision of the measurement. Nonetheless, by its very nature, a classic chronograph mechanism is directly activated by the seconds wheel and draws the energy required to drive it from the same mainspring as that of the time-display mechanism.
As its name implies, a coupling-clutch mechanism couples the chronograph mechanism to the time-display mechanism when starting an operation, and then uncouples it when the timing operation is stopped. The disc-based vertical coupling-clutch is the most effective type used today, and it minimises the losses in energy linked to this mechanism. Nonetheless, it cannot avoid significant variations in the precision of the watch when running with or without the chronograph in operation. Differences that may be negligible for measuring short times become far less so over longer periods of time. Applying the original Dual-Wing movement concept to the chronograph does away with the need for a coupling-clutch. The precision of the watch is not influenced by the chronograph.
The Duometre a Chronographe may therefore be considered as the first authentic chronometer-precision complication watch.
The construction principle of the Calibre 380 uses a fascinating horological device to replace the coupling-clutch: the jumping-seconds mechanism. Mounted on the arbor of the escape-wheel, an additional 30-toothed wheel transmits the cadence of the balance to a six-toothed wheel. The latter performs a complete rotation every second, and shows one-sixths of a second via a hand at 6 o'clock. By a reduction process, a kinematic chain enables it to display the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours. A finger-piece activated by the column wheel serves
to stop the jumping-second star in an intermediate position that thus enables the jumpingsecond escape-wheel teeth to move past without touching it. When the chronograph is restarted, the finger-piece is withdrawn, the torque supplied by the chronograph barrel sets the star rotating again, and the latter once again engages with the 30-toothed wheel.
Creating such a simple and yet subtle mechanism within such a diminutive space calls for exceptionally precise components as well as the kind of watchmaking talents that only a Manufacture mastering the full range of watchmaking professions is able to provide. The jumping-seconds mechanism was used for the first time in 19th century pocket-watches. At the time, the jumping-seconds hand was directly activated by the fourth wheel of the watch in order to indicate fractions of a second. For this reason, the jumping-seconds hand kept on running continuously and could not be stopped or reset. Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers would not have dreamt of presenting a chronograph worthy of its name without a resettable jumping seconds hand. For the Calibre 380, they therefore developed a system making it possible to reset the jumping-seconds hand at the same time as all the other chronograph counters.
Peerless readability
Remarkably beautiful and superbly finished, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380 features a large balance wheel (11.5 mg.cm2) beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, meaning six
vibrations per second. Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen the appropriate one-sixth of a second fraction not only for the jumping-seconds counter, but also by precisely dividing any seconds
indication into six parts so as to ensure that the central time and chronograph hands can move exactly over a scale with one-sixth of a second markings.
Both aesthetically and functionally, the Duometre a Chronographe is an exceptionally designed watch distinguished by absolute clarity and readability – a real challenge in light of the
complexity of the functions. Two large subdials are arranged symmetrically, one at 10 o'clock with the watch hour and minute hands, and another at 2 o'clock with the chronograph hour
and minute hands. An aperture in the chronograph subdial reveals a disc indicating the minute units from 0 to 9 and thereby facilitating accurate reading of the times being measured. This
new display, for which a patent has been filed, enables one to visualise at a glance the time elapsed in hours and minutes, for example 2 hours and 6 minutes, without needing to carefully
study the position of the minute hand. The dial also carries two power-reserve indicators, one at 7 o'clock for the conventional watch hands and the other at 5 o'clock for the chronograph.
The jumping-seconds hand which jumps in one-sixth of a second increments is cleverly positioned at 6 o'clock, below and between the watch and chronograph subdials. In order to handle this vast array of indications, the team of designers headed by Janek Deleskiewicz have allocated a colour code to the various functions. The hands linked to the standard time function and indicating the minutes, seconds and power-reserve are gold-plated or rhodium-plated, depending on the version; whereas those for the chronograph hours and minutes, the numerals on the minute-disc, the chronograph seconds and the jumping-seconds hands are in blued steel. This distinctive colour coding ensures instant reading of the time and of chronograph measurements at any given moment, even when the indications are in operation. The complex nature of the watch is easily mastered when starting, stopping or resetting the chronograph mechanism. Each time the single pushpiece located at 2 o'clock is activated, it operates in the exact same start-stop-reset, start-stop-reset sequence. Each press in fact starts, stops and resets all five key functions: chronograph hour and minute hands, the minute-unit disc, as well as the central chronograph seconds hand and the jumping-seconds hand. Admiring the intricate resetting ballet performed by the four chronograph hands and the disc is a truly fascinating experience.
Exceptional aesthetics and decoration
Such a prestigious watch naturally features a superb exterior as well as movement finishing worthy of the most exceptional Haute Horlogerie creations. The new case of the Duometre is
distinguished by polished welded lugs and an elegantly satin-brushed caseband. The dials are finely grained and carry the movement or watch number on a dedicated plaque at 6 o'clock. All the slender hands and pointers are exquisitely elegant. Embodying an entirely innovative concept, the Jaeger-LeCoultre 380 'Dual-Wing' movement powering the limited edition of the Duometre a Chronographe may be admired through the sapphire watch crystal. The independent barrels are snailed and bevelled by hand, while the ratchet-wheels are sunray-brushed with engraved and gilded "chronograph" and "hour/minute" indications. The bridges, hand-bevelled with polished sinks, reflect the Dual-Wing concept through taut, straight shapes for the standard watch mechanism, contrasting with arabesque motifs for the chronograph revealing the hearts, hammers, jumper-springs, column wheel and all the intricate workings of this mechanism. This decoration is inspired by the brand's traditional pocket-watches. The going trains are circular satin-brushed with hand-polished sinks. The wheels and pinions, also hand-bevelled or embellished with polished sinks, feature snailed or smoothedoff surfaces. And finally, the flame-blued steel screws underscore the complex nature of this exceptional calibre.
As the first model in this prestigious lineage, the Duometre a Chronographe watch will be issued in pink gold and platinum, while an 18-carat yellow gold edition will be presented in a limited series of 300. The Duometre vividly illustrates Jaeger-LeCoultre's unassailable position in the highest spheres of technical watchmaking. Although the watch might look deceptively simple to the uninitiated, the first Duometre a Chronographe may well prove to embody the ultimate in chronographs – at least until the appearance of a new creation destined to take its place in this exceptional lineage.
Duometre a Chronographe: technical specifications
Movement:
• Mechanical manually-wound, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380, crafted and decorated by hand
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• Two independent barrels, each with a 50-hour power reserve
• Approximately 390 parts
• 48 jewels
• 6.85 mm thick
• ø 33.70 mm (15 lines)
Functions:
• central hours, minutes and seconds, power reserve
• power reserve
• chronograph: concentric hours and minutes, minute-unit indicator, seconds, jumping seconds
Dial:
• platinum 950: platinum with grained-finish
• yellow gold: eggshell
• pink gold: hand-grained, silver-coloured
Hands:
• hour and minute: leaf-type, brass, gold-plated or rhodium-plated
• chronograph hour and minute: leaf-type, blued steel
• seconds: baton with pear-shaped counterweight, gold-plated, rhodium-plated or blued
• power reserve: baton type, gold-plated, rhodium-plated or blued
Crown:
• 1 crown to start the watch, to wind the watch power-reserve clockwise, to wind the chronograph power reserve counter-clockwise, and to adjust the hours and minutes
• 1 single pushpiece to control the chronograph and jumping seconds; start/stop/reset
Case:
• ø 42 mm in 950 platinum, 18-carat pink gold, 18-carat yellow gold
• welded lugs
• polished and satin-brushed finishing
• cambered sapphire crystals, hardness N°9, glare proofed on front and back
• water-resistant to 50 metres
Straps and buckle :
• matt grey or matt black or matt chocolate-brown alligator 21/18
• 18 mm double folding clasp in 18-carat gold
References:
• 950 platinum: Q6016490
• 18-carat pink gold: Q6012420
• 18-carat yellow gold, limited series of 300: Q6011420
By: Dje (registered) Sunday, April 15th, 2007 - Photo Nav: View All 1 photo(s)
Here is coming what many of you are waiting, a full size picture of the new Duometre a Chronographe calibre 380.
This is what I may call a nice point of view.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre a Chronographe movement picture
Here is also the full length press release issued by Jaeger-LeCoultre:
Duometre a Chronographe
The chronograph reinvented by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Acclaimed recent accomplishments such as the Gyrotourbillon I, the Master Minute Repeater and the Reverso Grande Complication a triptyque – the world's most complicated wristwatch – have borne eloquent testimony to the technical inventiveness of Jaeger-LeCoultre, setting the seal on its extraordinary renown within the highly selective field of Haute Horlogerie complications.
This year, the Manufacture maintains this intensive pace of innovations with the unveiling of a new collection, the Duometre, and the presentation of
the first model in the line, the Duometre a Chronographe. The latter's distinctive styling and unprecedented technical features clearly place it in the most exclusive echelons of watchmaking fine art. This genuine micromechanical revolution houses a new-generation Calibre 380, nicknamed "Dual-Wing". Two independent mechanisms respectively serve to drive the time display and an additional function, while a single shared regulating organ ensures chronometer-worthy operating precision without having to renounce the use of a complication. As the first representative of the new lineage, Calibre 380 is the first chronograph mechanism with no coupling-clutch, offering peerless time-measurement precision and read-off to the nearest one-sixth of a second. Housing this movement and endowed with a new case featuring welded lugs and a finely grained dial, the Duometre offers a superlative reinterpretation of a great watchmaking classic.
The Dual-Wing concept
The new Duometre line immediately commands attention with its brilliant new movement construction concept. Two separate watch mechanisms – one for the time display and another
for an additional complication – are synchronised by a single regulating organ. Each of these mechanisms has its own source of energy and there is no interaction between the two. The
only element they share is the regulating organ that supplies them with the time basis. The first movement to embody this new construction concept is Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380.
It drives time displays with chronometer-like accuracy, as well as a chronograph that is unprecedented in terms of its indications and its precision. One going train is entirely dedicated to the conventional time-display function (hours, minutes, seconds), and the other to the chronograph function, including a one-sixth of a second jumping seconds hand. Each mechanism is powered by its own barrel, ensuring a 50-hour power reserve (50 hours for the time and 50 hours for the chronograph). There is no transfer of energy in either direction. A single crown serves to wind the two barrels: when rotated clockwise, it winds the time; and when turned counter-clockwise, it winds the chronograph. This calibre is housed within the very first chronograph wristwatch to operate without any need for a coupling-clutch to handle the start/stop functions of timing operations. A single push-piece ensures perfect coordination of the five chronograph counters.
The chronograph reinvented by Jaeger-LeCoultre
The art of measuring and counting off periods of time has always been a source of fascination to humankind. Theoretically speaking, a chronograph mechanism and the layout of a chronograph dial must be extremely accurate and suited to repetitive and continuous use without ever jeopardizing the exactness and precision of the measurement. Nonetheless, by its very nature, a classic chronograph mechanism is directly activated by the seconds wheel and draws the energy required to drive it from the same mainspring as that of the time-display mechanism.
As its name implies, a coupling-clutch mechanism couples the chronograph mechanism to the time-display mechanism when starting an operation, and then uncouples it when the timing operation is stopped. The disc-based vertical coupling-clutch is the most effective type used today, and it minimises the losses in energy linked to this mechanism. Nonetheless, it cannot avoid significant variations in the precision of the watch when running with or without the chronograph in operation. Differences that may be negligible for measuring short times become far less so over longer periods of time. Applying the original Dual-Wing movement concept to the chronograph does away with the need for a coupling-clutch. The precision of the watch is not influenced by the chronograph.
The Duometre a Chronographe may therefore be considered as the first authentic chronometer-precision complication watch.
The construction principle of the Calibre 380 uses a fascinating horological device to replace the coupling-clutch: the jumping-seconds mechanism. Mounted on the arbor of the escape-wheel, an additional 30-toothed wheel transmits the cadence of the balance to a six-toothed wheel. The latter performs a complete rotation every second, and shows one-sixths of a second via a hand at 6 o'clock. By a reduction process, a kinematic chain enables it to display the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours. A finger-piece activated by the column wheel serves
to stop the jumping-second star in an intermediate position that thus enables the jumpingsecond escape-wheel teeth to move past without touching it. When the chronograph is restarted, the finger-piece is withdrawn, the torque supplied by the chronograph barrel sets the star rotating again, and the latter once again engages with the 30-toothed wheel.
Creating such a simple and yet subtle mechanism within such a diminutive space calls for exceptionally precise components as well as the kind of watchmaking talents that only a Manufacture mastering the full range of watchmaking professions is able to provide. The jumping-seconds mechanism was used for the first time in 19th century pocket-watches. At the time, the jumping-seconds hand was directly activated by the fourth wheel of the watch in order to indicate fractions of a second. For this reason, the jumping-seconds hand kept on running continuously and could not be stopped or reset. Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers would not have dreamt of presenting a chronograph worthy of its name without a resettable jumping seconds hand. For the Calibre 380, they therefore developed a system making it possible to reset the jumping-seconds hand at the same time as all the other chronograph counters.
Peerless readability
Remarkably beautiful and superbly finished, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380 features a large balance wheel (11.5 mg.cm2) beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, meaning six
vibrations per second. Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen the appropriate one-sixth of a second fraction not only for the jumping-seconds counter, but also by precisely dividing any seconds
indication into six parts so as to ensure that the central time and chronograph hands can move exactly over a scale with one-sixth of a second markings.
Both aesthetically and functionally, the Duometre a Chronographe is an exceptionally designed watch distinguished by absolute clarity and readability – a real challenge in light of the
complexity of the functions. Two large subdials are arranged symmetrically, one at 10 o'clock with the watch hour and minute hands, and another at 2 o'clock with the chronograph hour
and minute hands. An aperture in the chronograph subdial reveals a disc indicating the minute units from 0 to 9 and thereby facilitating accurate reading of the times being measured. This
new display, for which a patent has been filed, enables one to visualise at a glance the time elapsed in hours and minutes, for example 2 hours and 6 minutes, without needing to carefully
study the position of the minute hand. The dial also carries two power-reserve indicators, one at 7 o'clock for the conventional watch hands and the other at 5 o'clock for the chronograph.
The jumping-seconds hand which jumps in one-sixth of a second increments is cleverly positioned at 6 o'clock, below and between the watch and chronograph subdials. In order to handle this vast array of indications, the team of designers headed by Janek Deleskiewicz have allocated a colour code to the various functions. The hands linked to the standard time function and indicating the minutes, seconds and power-reserve are gold-plated or rhodium-plated, depending on the version; whereas those for the chronograph hours and minutes, the numerals on the minute-disc, the chronograph seconds and the jumping-seconds hands are in blued steel. This distinctive colour coding ensures instant reading of the time and of chronograph measurements at any given moment, even when the indications are in operation. The complex nature of the watch is easily mastered when starting, stopping or resetting the chronograph mechanism. Each time the single pushpiece located at 2 o'clock is activated, it operates in the exact same start-stop-reset, start-stop-reset sequence. Each press in fact starts, stops and resets all five key functions: chronograph hour and minute hands, the minute-unit disc, as well as the central chronograph seconds hand and the jumping-seconds hand. Admiring the intricate resetting ballet performed by the four chronograph hands and the disc is a truly fascinating experience.
Exceptional aesthetics and decoration
Such a prestigious watch naturally features a superb exterior as well as movement finishing worthy of the most exceptional Haute Horlogerie creations. The new case of the Duometre is
distinguished by polished welded lugs and an elegantly satin-brushed caseband. The dials are finely grained and carry the movement or watch number on a dedicated plaque at 6 o'clock. All the slender hands and pointers are exquisitely elegant. Embodying an entirely innovative concept, the Jaeger-LeCoultre 380 'Dual-Wing' movement powering the limited edition of the Duometre a Chronographe may be admired through the sapphire watch crystal. The independent barrels are snailed and bevelled by hand, while the ratchet-wheels are sunray-brushed with engraved and gilded "chronograph" and "hour/minute" indications. The bridges, hand-bevelled with polished sinks, reflect the Dual-Wing concept through taut, straight shapes for the standard watch mechanism, contrasting with arabesque motifs for the chronograph revealing the hearts, hammers, jumper-springs, column wheel and all the intricate workings of this mechanism. This decoration is inspired by the brand's traditional pocket-watches. The going trains are circular satin-brushed with hand-polished sinks. The wheels and pinions, also hand-bevelled or embellished with polished sinks, feature snailed or smoothedoff surfaces. And finally, the flame-blued steel screws underscore the complex nature of this exceptional calibre.
As the first model in this prestigious lineage, the Duometre a Chronographe watch will be issued in pink gold and platinum, while an 18-carat yellow gold edition will be presented in a limited series of 300. The Duometre vividly illustrates Jaeger-LeCoultre's unassailable position in the highest spheres of technical watchmaking. Although the watch might look deceptively simple to the uninitiated, the first Duometre a Chronographe may well prove to embody the ultimate in chronographs – at least until the appearance of a new creation destined to take its place in this exceptional lineage.
Duometre a Chronographe: technical specifications
Movement:
• Mechanical manually-wound, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380, crafted and decorated by hand
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• Two independent barrels, each with a 50-hour power reserve
• Approximately 390 parts
• 48 jewels
• 6.85 mm thick
• ø 33.70 mm (15 lines)
Functions:
• central hours, minutes and seconds, power reserve
• power reserve
• chronograph: concentric hours and minutes, minute-unit indicator, seconds, jumping seconds
Dial:
• platinum 950: platinum with grained-finish
• yellow gold: eggshell
• pink gold: hand-grained, silver-coloured
Hands:
• hour and minute: leaf-type, brass, gold-plated or rhodium-plated
• chronograph hour and minute: leaf-type, blued steel
• seconds: baton with pear-shaped counterweight, gold-plated, rhodium-plated or blued
• power reserve: baton type, gold-plated, rhodium-plated or blued
Crown:
• 1 crown to start the watch, to wind the watch power-reserve clockwise, to wind the chronograph power reserve counter-clockwise, and to adjust the hours and minutes
• 1 single pushpiece to control the chronograph and jumping seconds; start/stop/reset
Case:
• ø 42 mm in 950 platinum, 18-carat pink gold, 18-carat yellow gold
• welded lugs
• polished and satin-brushed finishing
• cambered sapphire crystals, hardness N°9, glare proofed on front and back
• water-resistant to 50 metres
Straps and buckle :
• matt grey or matt black or matt chocolate-brown alligator 21/18
• 18 mm double folding clasp in 18-carat gold
References:
• 950 platinum: Q6016490
• 18-carat pink gold: Q6012420
• 18-carat yellow gold, limited series of 300: Q6011420