SIHH 2017

[Megalos]

Baume Mercier Clifton GMT power reserve

[nick10]

TAG Heuer announces Carrera Calibre 16 Day-Date Chronograph Black Titanium

One of TAG Heuer’s most popular models receives an update.

To celebrate its 10th anniversary, the celebrated Chronograph Carrera Calibre 16 has been given a major face-lift: now available in a lighter version thanks to the use of titanium, it is contemporary and elegant in matte black with beige detailing, and paired with a distressed brown leather strap that is sure to please the modern hipster.

10 years! This sporty watch, 43 mm in diameter and launched in 2007, is TAG Heuer’s best seller and one of the brand’s iconic models. In 2017, the renowned chronograph has been updated in celebration of its anniversary. Firstly, it is now available in titanium, a decidedly modern and lightweight material, appearing here in Grade 2 micro-blasted black PVD titanium, giving the case an elegant and modern look, framed with a black ceramic bezel and beige tachymeter scale.

Various details echo the style of the 60s Carrera: the wide dial opening and its fine bezel, the two chronograph counters located at 6 and 12 o’clock with their applied rings, and finally the faceted lugs that featured on the original Carrera models. Other distinctive features: the minute counter with Arabic numerals in applied black gold with beige SuperLuminova™, the clearly visible Day and Date window at 3 o’clock and the small seconds counter that balances the dial’s overall appearance at 9 o’clock.

On the back, the sapphire case back displays the beautiful mechanics of the automatic Calibre 16 movement as well as the weight, decorated with a Côtes de Genève pattern. The watch is finished with an on-trend distressed calfskin strap that will age beautifully. This watch is bound to appeal to the modern hipster.

[markosgr28]

Εξαιρετική παρουσίαση με πολύ ωραίες φωτο και κάποια πολύ όμορφα ρολόγια! Ειδικά το μπλε καταδυτικό της ΑΡ και ο χρονογράφος με τα λευκά ή ασημί δεν είμαι σίγουρος υποκαντράν, καταπληκτικά!

[Svl]

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Sihh 2017 Previews




Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo (PAM00671)







LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 BMG-TECH 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC – 47mm (PAM00692)










LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ORO ROSSO – 42mm (PAM00684)











LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO – 42mm (PAM00682)










LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC TITANIO – 47mm (PAM01305)

[markosgr28]

Δεν είχα δει το θέμα και πόσταρα μάλλον σε λάθος σημείο:

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Ενδιαφέρον! Δεν είμαι σίγουρος πως μεταφέρεται και δεν το πείραξα, μην κάνω κάποιο λάθος.

[nick10]

Introducing The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860

It might seem strange to you that despite its very long history as a maker of very complicated watches (including last year's supercomplicated pocket watch, the ref. 57260) Vacheron Constantin has never made a grande sonnerie wristwatch. It looks like it seemed strange to VC as well; for the 2017 SIHH the company is introducing the first grande sonnerie wristwatch it's ever made, ever. The entire watch was assembled, adjusted, and regulated by a single watchmaker who expended around 500 hours of extremely expert labor on the watch.

A quick recap on chiming watches: there are all sorts of variations, but generally they fall into just two categories: the sonnerie, which chimes the time en passant, or "in passing" (that is, it will automatically chime the hour, and the hour and quarter hours) and the repeater, which chimes the time on demand (whenever you press a slide or button set into the case band). Grande Sonnerie wristwatches are extremely rare thanks to their considerable complexity, and relatively few watchmakers and brands even attempt them; the list of those who have made, or currently produce, a grande sonnerie includes Gerald Genta, F.P. Journe, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Bulgari, Philippe Dufour, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860 is designed to give away very little of its complexity, at least from the dial side.

In contrast to many grande sonnerie watches, the Symphonia Grande Sonnerie is almost austere in design; there is very little about the design of the two-tone dial and 45mm white gold case that would clue you into the fact that there's a grande sonnerie inside. There's no extraneous text on the dial, and a minimum of indications: a running seconds, a power reserve for the main timekeeping gear train, and a power reserve for the sonnerie. That's it.

A grande sonnerie has two mainspring barrels – one for the going train and one that powers the striking system; the going train has a power reserve of 72 hours, and the barrel for the striking train provides enough power for 20 hours of striking (that's 20 strikes of the hour and 60 strikes of the hour and the current quarter hour). It's easy to distinguish the power reserve display for striking – it's the one with the wave-shaped hand.

Both barrels can be wound using the crown too. Turning it clockwise winds the primary mainspring barrel and turning it counterclockwise winds the sonnerie barrel.

Strike mode for the sonnerie is set with a small switch on the bezel.

Pretty much the only indication that this is more than a simple watch, at least if you look at it from the dial side, is a little switch on the bezel. This is used to select the chiming function: GS stands for grande sonnerie; PS stands for petite sonnerie, or small strike, in which mode only the hours are struck; and SL, or silent mode, during which no striking en passant occurs at all (in small strike mode you will extend your 20 hour power reserve, obviously). As is generally the case with grande sonnerie wristwatches, the Symphonia Grande Sonnerie will also chime on demand as a minute repeater (by pressing the button in the crown).

Caliber 1860 has a number of features designed to improve reliability of the striking system, and reduce the risk of accidental damage to the striking system.

The movement is designated caliber 1860; it was, Vacheron says, developed and manufactured in-house. Dimensions are 37mm x 9.1mm, with two barrels and it runs in 74 jewels. There are several technical and safety features of note in the movement to note too.

One notable feature of the minute repeater strike is the elimination of the silent interval that, in an ordinary repeater, occurs between the conclusion of the hour strike and the beginning of the minutes strike, between the beginning of the hour and the first quarter hour (for example, there are no quarters to strike if the repeater is activated at 12:14, so typically there's a brief gap where the quarter strike would be). In the Symphonia Grande Sonnerie this silent interval doesn't occur.

While sleek and well-designed, this is not a small watch at 45mm x 15.1mm.

Vacheron also mentions that the movement is equipped with a "non-dragging surprise piece." The surprise piece is one of those complication-specific parts most of us never hear of, but it's indispensable in a repeater. The repeater mechanism "reads" the time from stepped cams (usually called snails) attached to the pivots of the minute and hour hand. The shape of these cams creates two problems. First, it is possible for a quarter hour to be struck accidentally at 14 minutes past the hour, when there should be no quarter struck. It is also possible, at one to 59 seconds past each quarter, for 14 minutes to be chimed when no minutes should be struck (that is, at 12:15:30 you should hear only twelve hour strikes, and a single quarter strike, and no minutes).

The striking system is usually hidden under the dial; shifting it to the back of the movement lets you see the complex system of racks, cams, and levers in operation.

The two surprise pieces "jump" into position when it comes time for them to do their thing. They actually pop out from under the minute cam and quarter hour cam: Surprise! (The name is confusing – the surprise piece is one of those few components named for its action, not its function). Ensuring they work properly is one of the more difficult adjustments to the movement a watchmaker has to make, and the energy to operate them usually comes from the action of a spring that flicks the surprise piece into position. The term "non-dragging" would seem to suggest an alternative system is used in the Symphonia Grande Sonnerie – one that eliminates the friction usually associated with these springs, and which is activated only when the repeater is actually engaged.

Actions by the user that might damage the mechanism are blocked by certain safety features. Both the sonnerie and repeater are automatically disengaged when you set the time; there is also a strike security feature, which ensures that if you switch strike mode while a strike is occuring, the change to a different mode only takes place after conclusion of the strike. The final major safety feature is that the barrel for striking is disengaged when power falls too low to complete a full strike, either in passing or on demand.

One more look at the front and back of the Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860.

The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860 is a unique piece with a price of approximately $1 million.

For more, visit Vacheron Constantin online.

The Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860: movement, caliber 1860; 37mm x 9.1mm, with 70-hour power reserve for timekeeping, and 20-hour power reserve for the grand strike. Case, 18k white gold, 45mm x 15.1mm. Reference: 9200E/000G-B099.

[nick10]

Introducing The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication

Very big news last year, in every possible sense of the word, was Vacheron Constantin's launch of the ref. 57260 pocket watch, the most complicated watch in the world. It had myriad complications, many astronomical in orientation, and some quite unusual (including a lunisolar Hebraic perpetual calendar). For 2017, Vacheron Constantin has announced a new highly-complicated watch; this time, however, it's a wristwatch, which focuses on astronomical indications in a very pure way. This is the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication, and it's the most complicated wristwatch Vacheron has ever created.

The Celestia is a sort of wristwatch encyclopedia of astronomical complications.

We'll be going in depth on this one soon, but for now, here's what we have for you: this is a unique piece, with a complete suite of astronomical complications. It is housed in a white gold case measuring 45mm x 13.6mm. The movement is designated caliber 3600 and it's 36mm x 8.7mm with six mainspring barrels offering a three-week power reserve (which is quite a feat in a watch this relatively small and with this many complications).

As with many astronomical timepieces, indications are divided between the front and back of the watch.

In addition to the time, you also have a moonphase, a sunrise/sunset complication, an indication of the length of the day and night, and a sector showing the current Sun sign in the Zodiac, as well as the Equinoxes and Solstices. You'll notice a golden hand with a Sun at its tip, in addition to the hour and minute hands – this is an Equation of Time marchant (we'll get into what that is shortly). Also on the front of the watch is a full, instantaneous perpetual calendar with leap year indication. Also on the front of the watch is something very much off the beaten path: a so-called Mareoscope, which shows the relationship of the Sun, Moon, and the tides as well.

The rear carries a planispheric star chard, as well as a power reserve.

On the back of the watch we have even more. This is where, in both pocket and wristwatches with astronomical complications, you would usually find a star chart if you were going to find one at all, and that's where VC quite logically put one as well. The sky chart is made of two separate disks of sapphire, and it shows the stars currently above the horizon, the position of the Milky Way, sidereal time, the tourbillon (which is not a complication per se but there it is if you're looking for it), indications showing the location of the celestial equator and plane of the ecliptic, and, on the far left, an unusual gauge-like power reserve.

Let's take a closer look at a few of these.

Sunrise/Sunset And Length Of Day Indication



If you follow the evolution of complications and you've come into watches relatively recently, you might think of the sunrise/sunset complication as unusual but not especially ground-breaking. It's surprising therefore to hear that, in wristwatches, it's a pretty new complication. The very first wristwatch with the complication was from Audemars Piguet: the Jules Audemars Equation Of Time, (a.k.a. the Most Interesting Watch You Probably Forgot About) which came out in 2000. It was followed by the Eos Sunrise/Sunset watch, by German watchmaker Martin Braun (a.k.a. The Most Interesting Watchmaker You Probably Forgot About), and though it has since cropped up here and there, it's still pretty rare.

This is mostly due to the fact that times for sunup and sundown are specific to latitude, which means every watch is basically a custom order as you have to make the cams that control the movement of the hands for each individual watch depending on the location desired by the owner. I'd assume the same latitude specificity applies to the length of day indication as well; you'd need a different disk for each latitude (the indication of sunrise and sunset on the VC Celestia changes thanks to the rotation of a bi-colored disk hidden behind the slit on the dial).

Equinoxes, Solstices, And Signs Of The Zodiac


This one is relatively straightforward. The disk carrying both the signs of the Zodiac (we'll leave aside the fact that the constellations representing the Zodiacal signs have drifted out of alignment with where they are said to be in traditional astrology) and the Equinoxes and Solstices (which, to drastically oversimplify, mark the divisions between the seasons) makes one revolution per tropical year (the time it takes for the Earth to take one trip around the Sun, as observed from the Sun's position in the sky as seen from Earth, as opposed to a sidereal year, which uses the stars as an observational reference).

The indication of the Equinoxes is approximate, it can vary from year to year by several days. Still, as a general way of staying in touch with where you are seasonally, this is more than adequate.

The Mareoscope


As tempted as I am to make a (very bad) pun that a Mareoscope complication is one that lets you know the location of a certain famous video game plumber with a strong Italian accent, I will refrain. The Mareoscope is basically an indication of the phase of the Moon, integrated with a tide chart. I'm not sure if the term is older than modern watchmaking (I've never seen it before, but that doesn't mean anything) – the only other use of the term I can find is in, of all things, a vintage Eberhard chronograph with a "mareoscope" indication, which is definitely much simpler. The general idea here is pretty clear: the Moon rotates around the Earth once per month, so you can see the configuration of the Sun-Moon-Earth system. This affects the height of the tides, which you can see from the tidal height indicator. It's a quite beautiful little system, and it pairs very well with the perpetual calendar, which is based on the position of the Earth in its orbit around the Sun.

The Equation of Time 'Marchant'

The equation of time in a wristwatch has become a somewhat more common complication in the last 16 or so years but it's still relatively rare, partly due to the fact that it's a somewhat abstract complication in several respects. The complication is based on the fact that our standard 24 hour day is actually an average of the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky (which is how you mark off a solar day). That time can vary by as much as a quarter of an hour or more over the course of a year, and the equation of time is just the difference on any given day, between the length of that particular solar day, and the mean, or average, solar day.

Generally the equation of time is shown by a hand that shows how many minutes you should add or subtract from mean solar time to get the actual local solar time. This requires a little addition or subtraction but in their desire to spare clients inconvenience, watchmakers came up with the equation of time marchant, in which the amount of time ahead or behind is shown by a continuously running hand that slowly oscillates ahead or behind the minute hand as the year goes by.

The Back: A Star Map, Showing Stars Above The Horizon, The Celestial Equator And Plane Of The Ecliptic, Relative Position Of the Milky Way, Sidereal Time, And Power Reserve

There is quite a lot of information you can get out of the back of this watch. At its most basic, this is a mechanically driven planisphere. A basic planisphere is something any of you who had an interest in backyard astronomy might be familiar with – that cardboard gadget consisting of two disks, with the bottom one printed with the stars, and the upper one with a cutout in it, whose edges represent the horizon, and within which you can see which stars are above the horizon at any given hour. The planisphere of this watch likewise consists of two disks. The upper one is printed with the stars, as well as a red and white ellipse. The red one represents the position of the Plane of the Ecliptic; this is the plane in which the orbits of the planets lie. As seen from Earth, it looks like a curve cutting across the sky, along which (more or less) the planets appear to move. The white one represents the Celestial Equator, which is a projection of the Earth's equator onto the celestial sphere.

The disk's also got a representation of the Milky Way on it, which you can (if there is not too much light pollution) also see passing across the night sky.

The lower disk rotates once per sidereal day, so placing a hand on it (or in this case, a golden triangle) gives you, hey presto, a sidereal time indication. The black ellipse shows you what stars are rising above or sinking below the horizon at any time.

You may notice that the whole system rotates around a central pivot, and exactly on that pivot is a star. Its official name is Alpha Ursae Minoris and it is the last star in the tail of the Northern constellation known as the Little Bear. It is better known as Polaris – the only star that does not move in the night sky, as it is directly on the projected axis of the Earth's north pole, making it the star to observe when you're observing stars for latitude (there is no corresponding Southern star, which means navigators in the Southern Hemisphere had to devise other means, such as those developed by ancient Polynesian navigators).

The Movement


The movement is remarkable for its small size relative to the complexity of its indications, but also, relative to its power reserve. The different indications are rooted in just three basic time systems: civil time (mean solar time), local solar time (the Equation of Time), and sidereal time. The first two mark the passage of a day based on the position of the Sun, while the latter does so based on the position of the stars. Thanks to the nearness of the Sun relative to the distant stars, an observed solar day is slightly shorter than an observed sidereal day and there are separate gear systems for all three systems in the watch.

The power reserve of three weeks would ordinarily require a pretty cumbersome mainspring barrel, or series of barrels. Though there are six barrels in the Celestia, they're kept relatively flat, partly thanks to the use of an alloy for the mainsprings called Bioflex, which as it turns out, is one of the so-called "shape memory" alloys. This is a group of alloys that gets their name from the fact that if deformed, application of heat can make the sample return to its original shape. In this application, they're being used for their high elasticity and resistance to deformation over time (features that make them useful in medical applications as well).

One of the loveliest things about this watch, I think, is that it really focuses on astronomical complications exclusively. It's an enormously appealing piece both intellectually and aesthetically. The great Breguet collector, Sir David Salomons, famously wrote that to carry a Breguet is to feel you have the brains of a genius in your pocket (which would up your dry cleaning bill, but one takes his point). I think wearing this watch would make you feel you had the universe on your wrist, and all the more so for finding so many ways to look at the heavens.

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600: ref. 9720C/00G-B281, with Geneva Hallmark. Movement, caliber 3600, hand wound, 36mm x 8.7mm, three week power reserve from six mainspring barrels. 18k white gold case, 45mm x 13.6mm, 3 bar water resistance. Slate dial with 18k gold hour markers. Price approximately $1 million.

Απίστευτο ρολόι!!!

[markosgr28]

Δεν είχα δει το θέμα και πόσταρα μάλλον σε λάθος σημείο:

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Ενδιαφέρον! Δεν είμαι σίγουρος πως μεταφέρεται και δεν το πείραξα, μην κάνω κάποιο λάθος.

Αυτό που μπορώ να κάνω είναι να το αντιγράψω εδώ

[nick10]

Introducing The Vacheron Constantin Copernic 'Celestial Spheres' Metiers d'Art

Vacheron Constantin is one of the rare manufactures to have its own true in-house Métiers d’Art department with experts in a variety of crafts like engraving, gem-setting, and enameling. But Vacheron's department doesn't just create some of the most beautiful timepieces around, it also creates really clever timepieces that introduce new time-telling functions and blend mechanics and art into one. The Copernic "Celestial Spheres" Métiers d’Art displays this ideal perfectly.

This watch is named in honor of famed mathematician Nicolas Copernicus, and it displays his theory of heliocentrism, which states that the Earth spins on its axis and orbits around the Sun. The 'Celestial Spheres' takes the two main points of this theory and depicts them in motion to relate information about the time of day and year back to the wearer.

One of the dial variants for this watch features ornate hand engraving.

The timekeeping mechanism is one thing, but where you most obviously see traces of Vacheron Constantin’s department of Métiers d’Art is in the dial. Using the style of Andreas Cellarius, a 17th century cartographer and the author of scientific text Harmonia Macrocosmica, the department created the main dial plate with the signs of the zodiac around the central gold Sun.

A close-up look at the hand-painted dial variant of this watch.

There are three variations of the Copernic 'Celestial Spheres' Métiers d’Art, each displaying different types of decorative techniques. One includes an enameled dial with enameled Earth, another is a fully hand-engraved model (the one depicted in the images here), and one is hand-painted and engraved. It seems like they'll offer three totally different looks, despite the functions of the watch being the same.

The Vacheron Constantin Copernic "Celestial Spheres" Metiers d'Art.

The hours and minutes are displayed by two floating triangular hands, solid for the minutes and openworked for hours, that are driven by large wheels positioned beneath the bezel. The biggest achievement of the watch however is its ability to depict, with a great deal of precision, the Earth’s journey through space, with the Earth disc making a full rotation around its axis once every 24 hours and orbiting the central Sun once every 365.2421898 days.

I really can’t wait to see caliber 2460 RT in action, and to find out about its development. What we know for now is that it's automatic, has a 36-hour power reserve, and is comprised of 352 total components.

This watch is powered by the Caliber 2460 RT, a totally new in-house movement.

The movement and dial work are framed by a white gold case, measuring 43mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness. Twelve stylized zodiac signs have been engraved around the bezel area with small engraved hash marks in between each to more distinctly mark the hours.

Pricing for the three models varies depending on the dial choice, with prices ranging from $88,100 to $129,600. All three watches are also exclusive to Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

[nick10]

Introducing The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual 'Pour Le Mérite,' The First Lange PLM With A Perpetual Calendar

The A. Lange & Söhne "Pour le Mérite" watches go way back with the modern incarnation of A. Lange & Söhne; the very first was the Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite," which at the time of its introduction in 1994 was the very first wristwatch ever made with a fusée and chain. Yes, a fusée and chain is impractical in a wristwatch, and yes, it's an anachronism (it takes up space, it's not necessary in a modern watch with a lever escapement, balance spring, and which uses modern alloys for the mainspring).

This was, and is, less important than the fact that it's a statement about Lange's philosophy, which is not just about pure technical superiority, but also about a kind of theater of tradition, and the elevation of tradition to a way to connect with the history of both Saxon watchmaking in particular, and watchmaking in general. Miniaturizing the fusée and chain for a wristwatch means making a very minute, very strong (for its size) chain, and also miniaturizing the mechanism inside the fusee that keeps power flowing to the balance even while the watch is being wound. (Remember, a fusée chain is wound onto the fusée when you wind the watch, and unwound off the fusée onto the mainspring barrel during winding). So-called "maintaining power" was invented by John Harrison, and the much tinier descendant of this invention is inside the fusée cone of all Pour le Mérite watches.

The Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Mérite is the most complex PLM model since they were launched in 1994.

The Tourbograph Perpetual was developed from the 2005 Tourbograph "Pour le Mérite," which is a rattrapante chronograph, with tourbillon, and fusée and chain. The Tourbograph is to put it mildly an impressive as hell watch, if Lange's design philosophy resonates with you at all; ditto the Tourbograph Perpetual. The design of the latter starts where the Tourbograph leaves off: the mainplate houses the barrel and fusée, the going train, and the tourbillon; the rattrapante works are on the back, and the perpetual calendar works are, as is traditional in both Swiss and German watchmaking, under the dial.

Caliber L133.1 adds a perpetual calendar plate to the Tourbograph "Pour Le Mérite."

From the rear, or top plate side, you can see the two column wheels that control the rattrapante chronograph functions, as well as the signature Lange engraved balance cock. The two jaws surrounding the central chronograph wheel are for the split function. When they fall onto the wheel, they freeze one of the two chronograph seconds hands, "splitting" the time recorded. When they open as the column wheel turns, they allow the stopped hand to fly around and line up with the hand that's still running. It's an extremely fussy complication to make and adjust and at one time, the rattrapante was considered a complication on the same level, or near to it, as the minute repeater.

The perpetual calendar plate was designed to use a smaller-than-usual amount of space as it had to fit around the tourbillon aperture.

On the dial side, you can of course make out major landmarks like the tourbillon itself, the moonphase disk, and the perpetual calendar works, flanking the center of the dial. A couple of landmarks here are the seven-pointed star wheel for switching the day of the week (left, about halfway from the edge to the center at about 8:00) and the program wheel for the length of each month.

The latter is hard to spot unless you look very closely. At the upper right, right next to the moon disk, is a bronze colored wheel under a bridge, turning in a ruby. Just under that is the steel-colored month program disk, which is the heart of most traditionally constructed perpetual calendars. There is a separate step for each month, with the depth or height of the step corresponding to the length of the month in question. You can just barely make out the steps on the lower left and lower right hand sides of the bronze-colored wheel.

You can just make out the perpetual calendar program wheel, under the bronze gear at the center of the image.

As with any watch of this complexity, part of the challenge is making sure it doesn't become so large as to become practically unwearable. At 43mm x 16.6mm, this is definitely a large and certainly fairly heavy wristwatch but then, you're carrying around a pretty heavyweight statement about fine watchmaking as well.


This will be a limited edition of 50 pieces and price at launch will be €480,000 (approximately $507,792 at time of publishing).

For more, visit A. Lange & Söhne online.

The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual "Pour le Mérite": movement, Lange caliber L133.1, hand-wound with 36 hour power reserve, adjusted to 5 positions; 32mm x 10.9mm. 684 components counting the chain as a single part; number of chain links, 636; 36-hour power reserve. Case, platinum, 43mm x 16.6mm.