Introducing The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, An Update On A Modern Classic
We sensed something special would be coming from Le Brassus this year, but we were a little unsure about the exact model, since there are a number of Royal Oak–related anniversaries this year. What we have here is a new Royal Oak Chronograph marking the 20th anniversary of that model, with a seriously updated look. No, these don't contain a new in-house chronograph movement, but they're worth taking a closer look at nonetheless.
In total, Audemars Piguet is offering seven different executions of the new series – three in stainless steel and four in pink gold. We’ll get to the details in a bit, but first, here’s a look at how this new range differs from the previous one. Hint: most (but not all) of the changes are cosmetic, resulting in a very different kind of chronograph.
While most models come on integrated metal bracelets, these two versions have alligator straps.
The new series replaces the the line-up that's been on offer since 2012, and it's all about swapping monotone for two-tone. That’s right, uniform colored dials have been completely shunned from the new collection, and that’s a pretty radical move when you consider there are only two like it in the Chronograph collection, both of them in limited editions of a few hundred pieces. They were the silver and blue "Swiss Made Limited Edition" and the black and silver "QE II Cup 2015 Limited Edition." There were of course others in the Offshore collection.
The three new steel models, all with two-tone dials of course.
Both of those color schemes are back (see above), though in both cases they have been inverted. Additionally, five more two-tone dials are being offered – including a reverse panda configuration – in stainless steel, titanium and pink gold cases.
Of course, if you want to go all-out, you can get one of the solid gold versions on a matching rose gold bracelet.
Other changes made on the dial show a concerted effort to increase legibility. The size of the chronograph counters at nine o'clock and three o'clock have increased, and so has the width of the hour markers, meaning there’s also more luminescent material filling each one.
I suspect the most controversial decision though won’t be the two-tone dials, but rather the very slight adjustment in the position of the date window, which stays between four and five o’clock, but drifts from a perfectly centered position between the two hours makers because of the size of the 30-minute counter.
Up close, you can really get a sense of the new dial proportions.
Inside these new chronographs is the automatic caliber 2385, which AP has not updated for this model. It's still the same self-winding chronograph movement with a vertical clutch and a 40-hour power reserve. Sure, adding an in-house movement here would have been awesome, but this is no slouch of a caliber by any measure. Far from it, in fact.
As far as pricing goes, there are basically three pricing levels. The stainless steel watches with integrated bracelets are priced at $24,300. For the gold watches, those with straps will set you back $38,300, while those on integrated bracelets will cost $56,600.
