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German favorites A. Lange & Söhne have kept it predictably simple this year. There’s no big splash with an entirely new model, and the brand only announced to new releases. One is a simple line extension with a new blue variant of the Datograph Up/Down, but the more interesting one puts a new spin on one of the brand’s most complicated watches. First introduced in 2016, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon was built on the Datograph Perpetual, which in turn expanded on the Datograph Up/Down. For Watches and Wonders 2024, the brand is casing the triple-complication watch in its proprietary Honeygold for the first time and giving it some lume. This is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.

The new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon case is offered in the brand’s 18k Honeygold, a proprietary gold alloy that is harder and wormer than yellow gold, but lacking the redness of rose or pink gold. The case itself has a mix of brushed and polished surfaces and a sapphire crystal, with a diameter of 41.5mm and a thickness of 14.6mm. That’s sure to wear slightly bulky, but given the amount of complications going on, it seems reasonable. The case features traditional chronograph pushers and rapid correctors each for the moonphase, day of the week, and one for the month and leap year. The brown alligator leather strap has a matching 18k Honeygold deployant buckle and while water resistance is not indicated, it’s likely the same as previous models at 30m.

The dial of the original model was black, and then a Salmon model was introduced in 2019, but now the theatrics have been brought to the watch. Like all “Lumen” models, the dial is a coated sapphire crystal, with a smokey finish and lume just about everywhere. Given the inclusion of a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, this is an understandably cluttered dial, though Lange has omitted the power reserve that used to sit at the arc between 9 and 10 o’clock. Lume is generously applied to the subdials, which serve double duty as perpetual calendar indicators and a running seconds (9 o’clock) and 30-miute chrono register (3 o’clock). There’s also lume on the tachymeter ring, the seconds hashes, and the alpha handset. Of course, the big date at 12 and the moonphase at 6 are also fully lumed. As mentioned, this may be cluttered, but it’s not unclear, and legibility appears excellent given everything it has going on.

The movement of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is on full display through the sapphire caseback. The updated caliber is the L952.4, whereas previous models featured the L952.2. It features a flyback chronograph mechanism with jumping minutes, a perpetual calendar, and the intricate tourbillon at 12 o’clock (I’m a big fan of when any brand hides the tourbillon behind the dial instead of ostentatiously displaying it through an aperture). It has 45 fewer components, owing at least to the removal of the power reserve on the dial, if not other efficiencies. It has a power reserve of 50 hours and runs at 18,000vph, allowing for timing at 1/5 second intervals (the dial features 300 markers so it will stop on one no matter when the chronograph stops). As ever, the movement itself is a stunning display of hand-finished craftsmanship, rendered in untreated German silver with blued screws, gold chatons, and striping and perlage decoration.

These Lumen watches are some of the most outré things that Lange does. The brand is not known for taking too mnay chances or getting very wild. It was a shock when it relented to market pressure and released the Odysseus sports watch, and besides that, the Zeitwerk is probably the craziest (if not most complicated) watch the brand produces. So, when it smokes a dial and coats it in lume, it counts as a bit daring. Pricing for the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” was not available at the time of publication and is listed as “Upon Request” by the brand. For more information, please visit the A. Lange & Söhne website.

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Αυτή τη διαφάνεια στο dial τι την θέλουν
Μου χαλάει την συμμετρία

kalvetfl67 έγραψε: ↑Πέμ Απρ 11, 2024 7:22 pm Αυτή τη διαφάνεια στο dial τι την θέλουν
Μου χαλάει την συμμετρία

Έλα ντε, θα συμφωνήσω, κατά τα άλλα ΥΩ στα καλύτερα της.

A. Lange & Söhne subtly upgrades a holy grail – the Lange 1

If you're renowned for being sophisticated, classy and in a league of your own – just like watchmaking German gods A. Lange & Söhne – how do you go about celebrating the big 3-0? By unveiling an updated version of one of its icons, in two precious materials and two different sizes, that's how.

Before the world wars, the brand now known as A. Lange & Söhne had enjoyed a long and successful stint as Germany's finest watchmaker. But it was only after the reunification of its country in the '90s that the brand (thankfully) found its feet again.

Today, exactly 30 years to the day since it first came out in 1994, a dashing new Lange 1 has entered the conversation, and there's plenty to talk about. So, what does it look like? (‘I hope it is not square’, wrote someone in the comments section of Lange’s Instagram post announcing the imminent launch, a dig at the much talked-about Patek drop).

The Lange 1 finally returns in a platinum case,” rejoices watch writer Thomas Brechtel. “Nothing is more beautiful than a heavy platinum case combined with a deep black and shiny onyx dial. Black dial A Lange & Söhne watches do not come often, they are always rare. What an exclusive choice." The other new model released comes with a pink gold case and midnight blue dial. “The difference between the two anniversary watches could not be more contrasting,” adds Brechtel.

What makes the Lange 1 so popular within the IYKYK watch crowd is that i has always done its own thing. Not many watches exhibit an off-centre dial configuration and a typical outsized date window — but the Lange 1 does, and it just works.

“It's living proof that imbalance can be balanced," says J.J. Owens, founder of Daily Grail. “The Lange 1 is the first ever asymmetrical dial I’ve been drawn to… and it embodies the brand masterfully. The latest iterations only continue that — but if I had to choose one, the onyx dial adds the modern element a release needs to be just different enough to appeal to both Lange lovers and those uninitiated.”

As mentioned, the new Lange 1 comes in two sizes. The classic piece is 38.5mm and there's a baby brother too: a mini 36.8mm version called Little Lange 1. The Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 both tick thanks to the same manually wound movement, have a power reserve of 72 hours and come with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap.

“A Lange 1 should be in every serious collector’s watch box,” says collector Robin Wong, who is a fan of these 30th anniversary limited editions. “The platinum version with an onyx dial is a first for a Lange 1 and extremely rare, and the blue dial on the rose gold versions are also special as there are very few Lange 1s with coloured dials. If you don't have a Lange 1 yet, these are definitely worth considering,” he adds. Although the Little Lange 1s are limited to 150 pieces each and the Lange 1s 300 each, so good luck getting your hands on one.

Another reason why the Lange 1 is held in such high esteem is because it's largely remained unchanged since in was first introduced. “There was a significant revision in 2016, but the Lange 1 remains as we know it — a classic with no fashionable changes to its appearance. I like this conservative attitude of the brand,” he adds.

And who is another watchmaker known for making incremental rather than drastic change? “A. Lange & Söhne enjoys the same privilege as Rolex: they do boring so well. They don’t have to do much in order to make people happy," says watch collector and author Kristian Haagen. “Don’t get me wrong, an onyx dial is spectacular but I would have expected a super limited Handwerkskunst to mark the 30th anniversary." But why would A Lange & Söhne do what was expected?

“Nobody notices that new black Tom Ford tuxedo you got for your 30th birthday,” adds Haagen. "Rather, they see a man in a black tuxedo, which is also perfectly OK. Happy 30th, Lange 1. Don’t ever change.”

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