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Breguet’s Type XX Civilian 2067 is now available in gold with a first-ever ceramic bezel insert[/size]
Almost exactly a year ago, we published a conversation I had with former Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca – who was recently appointed as Blancpain’s next CEO, with Gregory Kissling taking a Marca’s place as CEO of Breguet. In this conversation, he shared his vision of the future of the current Type XX generation. He described the parameters of what will always be a Type XX watch. For example, he described how every Type XX would be a chronograph – no more, no less in complication. He also stated that the in-house calibre 728 series would be exclusive to the Type XX collection. But, not all of his statements were restrictive in nature. A Marca also detailed that a new steel bracelet would be introduced, which has since been unveiled, and that the Type XX collection, as it expands, would start to play with new materials. This comes true today, with the new Type XX 2067RK/Y0/9WU introducing ceramic for the first time in any Breguet watch, ever, combining it with 18k rose gold.
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This release is largely an aesthetic remix rather than a technical overhaul, with the majority of the specifications identical to the preceding steel models of the latest Type XX generation. The case remains 42mm in diameter and 14.1mm thick. The placement of the chronograph counters remains the same, with the oversized small seconds counter at the 3 o’clock position. The applied numerals and hands keep the same form, and the date remains placed at the contentious 04:30 position. What makes the Breguet Type XX 2067RK new is that it’s the first precious metal reference of the latest-gen Type XX line, and, more significantly, it’s the first-ever Breguet to use ceramic for an external component (ceramic bearings have been used in Breguet movements).
Ceramic makes its debut in the form of a bezel insert ring, executed in blue to match the dial with the numeral scale matching the colour of the 18k rose gold case. The blue dial features a rich sunburst finish, an added flair of elegance befitting a precious metal configuration, and dial scrutinisers will be glad to know the date disc is executed in white-on-blue to maintain a more seamless blend. To recap, of the latest generation of Type XX watches, this 2067RK is the first to have a ceramic bezel insert, a coloured dial, and a dial that uses both a sunburst finish and azurage for the counters rather than a full matte finish.
Inside and exhibited, we once again have Breguet’s calibre 728 – a high-beat, vertical-clutch, column-wheel chronograph calibre with 60 hours of power reserve. It also includes a patent-pending flyback system that ensures constant force for a perfect reset of the central chronograph seconds hand regardless of the pressure of pusher actuation. The sunburst-patterned bridges also return, along with the black winding rotor. The calibre 728 has not changed one micron for the Type XX 2067RK, and that is totally fine.
Considering the reality of secondary market depreciation for many precious metal Breguet models (which is not really due to any fault of the brand), the higher retail price tag of this precious metal Type XX (US$37,900) may send budget-conscious buyers to the secondary market for past generation models. Having said that, these do not have the allure of the current generation’s high-beat movement – and certainly not the accolade of being the first-ever Breguet watch to use ceramic on its externals. I think it’s great that Breguet has bundled the Type XX 2067RK with two interchangeable straps, an alligator leather strap and fabric NATO strap, each outfitted with its own 18k rose gold hardware, and that we are seeing this collection that Breguet irrefutably invested in expand and grow. This is a solid first step, but I hope to see the teases Lionel a Marca described (such as case size variation) enter the fold, and would certainly be behind a full ceramic-cased Type XX.
https://timeandtidewatches.com/breguet- ... troducing/
