This is made in Grenchen in Switzerland but pleasingly, for my family, there is a Lancashire connection since it was John Harwood, a watch repairer from Bolton who came up with the idea of an automatic self-winding movement and registered the patent. It was first produced with the help of Fortis and was presented worldwide during the Basel Fair in 1926.
Fortis continued to lead the way with this type of movement and their timepieces became the watches of choice for cosmonauts, astronauts, those associated with space travel and aviators. Their support was not solicited, nor were they provided with watches for the publicity, they sought them, wanted them. What greater accolade could any watch company have for their products?
2012 marks Fortis’ 100 year anniversary. This new version of the Marinemaster marks their centenary. It pays tribute to the versions of the 40s but in particular to one of their classics in the range launched in the 70s. Fortis, however, whilst paying tribute does not merely offer an update of previous models but reflects contemporary design.
It comes as a limited edition of 500 pieces for each variant, individually numbered, in two colour schemes, with bold blue (800.20.85) or vibrant orange (800.20.80) sub-dials. The latter choice echoes the 70s totally when orange dominated. I wore orange as a bridesmaid, had orange wallpaper in the living room, orange carpet… very over-done, but in this case orange pays homage to an era it does not give one a headache as my furnishings did.
Nostalgia, therefore, leads me to focus on the orange version.
The dial
The dial is black against which the salient features stand out. In the blue version it is grey. The face presents a great deal of information.
The retro look is furnished by the three orange sub-dials, and the luminosity of hour and minute hands, and of the indices. The colour choice adds vibrancy and brings the sub-dials into sharp focus. They sit traditionally placed at 3, 6 and 9 hours.
The permanent small second is at three o’clock. Its outer chapter ring is in orange, its centre, as with all the sub dials in silver. The numbers 15, 30, 45 and 60 are presented in a clear, uncompromising form which is used in all the sub dials. Simple strokes mark the progress of the sturdy black hand, those at the quarters just a little thicker than the others.
The two chronograph subcounters continue the same colour theme. That at 6 o’clock mirrors the small seconds with an orange chapter ring, marking the hours to 12 but with extra strokes. The one at 9 o’clock introduces grey into its colour scheme with the 30 minutes counted off again with the same straight forward, black hand passing around a chapter ring which alternates grey and orange segment.
The hands are rectangular orange but with the additional feature of a stripe of luminous material which glows green in the darkness. Their rectangular form is echoed in the grey baton indices which also carry a central stripe of the same luminous paint.
At first glance there is a lot of detail on the face. Each baton is accompanied by numbering at their apex of each 5 minute division. The tachymeter reading is at the outer limit of the chapter ring. There is still space at 12 o’clock to display the Fortis name, its crown and the movement’s automatic credentials whilst in very small lettering at 6 o’clock is the security of the appellation, “Swiss Made”.
It is viewed through the domed PMMA glass, again adding to the retro feel. The glass has a special anti-reflective coating.
The case
The case is made of steel, brushed and polished. It is 40mm in diameter.
It features a knurled unidirectional rotating diver's bezel with 120 divisions. It is well marked, with clear numbers and vigorous indices strokes, again treated with luminous material so that the scale has greater visibility.
It has a glass case back, individually numbered.
The knurled crown resting at 3 o’clock bears a crown with the FORTIS logo.
The movement
This is of course a Swiss movement which gives confidence in the product, automatic, with 47 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour.
This is a watch to withstand challenges for although it has a fine timing device as its appearance suggests, it is robust and has an incabloc shock absorber.
Importantly as a diver’s watch it is water-resistant to 50 meters.
Other features
The strap is of black leather with contrasting stitching; large stitches which make an impact. The central portion of the strap is raised and the stitches stand proud against the masculine grain of the leather. There is a silcone strap with a folding clasp as an option for those who wish to enter to explore oceans deep. This carries the FORTIS logo and is marked with the words “Limited Edition”.
Alternatively, the metal folding clasp can be ordered with the same finish as the standard item.
Conclusion
This is a courageous watch for those with courage. It has impact. It makes a powerful impression even at first glance even before its attributes are considered. It is not subtle but nor were the 70s. Confident and bold, it is not one to be worn by the faint-hearted but for those who can rise to a challenge.
Technical specification
Model: Fortis Limited Edition Marinemaster Vintage
Reference: 800.20.80 (Orange) - limited to 500 pieces.
Case: stainless steel in highly polished and brushed finish; 40.00 mm diameter ; unidirectional bezel; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); PMMA glass to front with special coatingand glass back.
Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; chronograph; tachymeter scale.
Movement: FORTIS Calibre F-2020. Self-winding; Frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 47 jewels.
Strap: Black leather with contrasting stitching with pin buckle.
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