Introducing The Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm With Manually-Wound Master Chronometer Caliber
A thoroughly modern take on a classic dress watch.
Quick Take
A few months back, Omega released a limited edition Trésor to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the Omega brand name. If you don’t remember, it might be because it happened the same day as Omega announcing they’d be resuming production of the caliber 321, which obviously got a lot more attention. This Trésor was in solid gold and introduced a new caliber, the 8929, the very first hand-wound movement to get the Master Chronometer certification.
What we’ve got here is a set of five new mainline Trésor watches that utilize the same basic design and the same awesome movement. There are two models available in steel (with white or textured blue dials), two models available in gold (with grey or white enamel dials), and one model available with a diamond bezel (in steel with a blue dial). All are 40mm across and use a simple three-hand display with center seconds and a date window tucked in a six o’clock – in all instances the date disc matches the color of the dial.
While the watches are definitely handsome on the outside, the movement inside is one of the most interesting things here. The hand-wound caliber 8910 (8929 in the gold models) is Master Chronometer certified by METAS and is finished in a style that’s become one of Omega’s signatures over the last few years. As far as volume-produced movements go, the finishing is top of the pile, and the version of the movement in the gold editions has a gold balance bridge for a little extra flair.
Notably, prices for the steel models start at $6,500 and go up to $15,000 for the gold models with enamel dials, making them all the more appealing.
Initial Thoughts
For some context, I saw these Trésor models as part of a pretty intense three day program put on by Swatch Group in Switzerland as an alternative to Baselworld. I saw a lot of watches in a short period of time, which is a sure fire recipe for what I like to call “product blur” – at a certain point, everything starts to blend together.
With that in mind, the new hand-wound Trésor is a true standout for me. This is a cutting-edge taking on one of the most traditional styles of watches, the all-purpose three-hand-date. (I wouldn’t quite call these dress watches, though you could certainly wear them as such.) The case’s lines are spot on, the dials are sharp and legible, and I’m even convinced that the date display is a good addition here. For $6,500, I’m hard-pressed to think of a watch of this style that offers more value for money from anyone. For me, these Trésor models set a new benchmark that’s going to be hard for competitors to match.
One thing to note here: If you're looking at these watches and are thinking "Wait, haven't they been around for a while?" you're almost right. The old version of the 40mm Trésor (which we reviewed back in 2014) was not Master Chronometer certified – Omega only started working with METAS to give watches this designation in 2015. The "Master" on the dials of the older versions just indicated that they were resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss, not that they had the special certification. So while the watches you see here are familiar in a lot of ways, they're packing even more power under the hood.
The Basics
Brand: Omega
Model: De Ville Trésor 40mm
Reference Number: 435.18.40.21
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 10.07mm (steel); 10.82mm (gold)
Case Material: Stainless steel, yellow gold or Sedna gold
Dial Color: Silver or textured blue (steel), white enamel (yellow gold), grey enamel (Sedna gold)
Indexes: Applied batons
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap with matching pin buckle
The Movement
Caliber: Master Co-Axial 8910 (steel models) and Master Co-Axial 8929 (gold models)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 29mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Jewels: 29
METAS Master Chronometer Certified
Additional Details: The hour hand can be adjusted in one-hour jumps; free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring; resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss.
Pricing & Availability
Price: $6,500 (stainless steel without diamonds), $11,800 (stainless steel with diamonds) $15,000 (yellow and Senda gold)
Availability: August 2019
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