One of Cartier's most iconic wristwatches is the Tortue monopusher chronograph. Created in the 1920s and then revived as part of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris, it is one of the most recognisable wristwatch chronographs of any brand.
But the Tortue monopusher, vintage or modern, is pricey. And so is the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde chronograph with its clever co-axial display. Someone recently asked me about more affordable Cartier chronographs, so I thought this would make a good post. Cartier does indeed offer some interesting chronographs at more affordable prices, ranging from the sporty to the more formal.
The most entry level mechanical chronograph is the recently launched Roadster S. Inside is a Valjoux 7753 calibre. The movement is very pedestrian but the case is well executed. The hefty bracelet with brushed surfaces with bevelled edges is especially well done.
Unlike early versions of the Roadster this chronograph no longer has the bubble over the date window, an improvement in my opinion. However, this still has the turban-like crown of the original Roadster.
This is a chunky watch, with a case measuring 50.2 mm by 49.2 mm. The Roadster has never been a favourite design of mine, though it does have its fans. For those seeking something sporty this is an interesting option. A rubber bracelet version is also available.
Moving upwards we have the Ballon Bleu chronograph. Though the Ballon Bleu is a modern design, the dial is classic Cartier in style – silvered with guilloche and blued steel sword hands. But the asymmetry of the dial adds an off-beat touch to the classic styling. This is available on strap or bracelet, with a silver or black dial.
Inside the Ballon Bleu chronograph is the 8101 MC movement. It is decorated, not lavishly, but well enough for a watch of this price point.
This is made by JLC exclusively for Cartier, has is certainly a notch above the Valjoux of the Roadster S. It has a column wheel and vertical clutch, as is now standard for mid to high end chronograph calibres today.
Using a similar calibre to the Ballon Bleu chronograph is the Pasha 42 mm chronograph which has the 8000 MC movement. This is my favourite of the trio.
The movement specs of the Pasha 42 mm are largely the same as the 8101 MC of the Ballon Bleu, with the obvious difference being the Pasha has three counters for the chronograph.
Though the 8000 MC and 8101 MC are both based on the JLC cal. 750, they are not identical. A key difference in the Cartier movement is the design of the reset hammer for the chronograph. According to Cartier, the 8000 MC has “a flexible linear hammer that enables [it] to have a perfect reset over time; the flexibility of the hammer prevents the components [wearing out] after [numerous] resets of the chronograph.”
The Pasha 42 mm has a grained silver dial with blued steel hands. It has a very clean look but with well thought out details like oval sub-dials and the manner in which the date window is integrated into the square minute track.
Interestingly the hands are a shade darker than the hands of the Ballon Bleu, purely for aesthetics.
And it has the trademark canteen cap over the crown, originally for water-resistance, but now just a design element.
The Pasha 42 mm chronograph is my pick of these entry-level chronographs. It is classic Cartier style and well made. I only wish more dial colours were available.
http://cartier.watchprosite.com/show-fo ... 81428/s-0/
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